I had some very delicious berries,yoghurt and granola - not as sweet as most here - and coffee and said 'goodbye' to another cafe. I managed to squeeze everything into my pack and left it and my day pack with Warren and Susan and walked a kilometre or so to a cafe in Central Park where I had an early lunch. I went back, collected my bags, walked to the corner, stuck my arm out and a taxi stopped. Very easy.
I chatted to a lady from Sydney while waiting for half an hour or so for the checkin desk to open. I explained to the nice gentleman what had happened on the way over and was there anything he could do, please, to stop it happening again. Turns out he is the duty officer in charge of the other check in people and none of them can change my seat without refering to him. He will also be at the departure gate. I also wrote his name in my little notebook. We shall see what happens. It will be just my luck to have a very large person sitting either side of me.
At the end of the conversation, before he gave my boarding pass to me he wrote on it. 'This will get you into the BA lounge' he said. Thank you very much. I have just had a very interesting shower . I could have water coming out from the top, or shoulder height or top and shoulder or hip eight. I had taken spare clothes with the intention of changing in LA, but the shower and clean clothes are lovely now.
I will now go and get some food.
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Wednesday Last full day
This
morning I was almost not popular twice.
I had to buy a subway ticket because my monthy one has run out. I had a
whole lot of quarters saved to do a load of washing which I haven’t needed. It
took a while to feed them into the machine at the subway station. Luckily there
was only an old couple waiting and they were in no hurry and did not know what
to do anyhow. I helped them.
At Bryant
park, I took some extra time to pay, using up yet more small change . The people behind me were tourists, so they
could wait. My coffee and croissant were nice. But the wind made reading the
paper a bit difficult. Then I walked
about 14 blocks heading to a shop ,
Habu, I had read about. I passed Macy’s and thought I would have a quick look
to see if they had shoes like I am looking for. Silly me. Once I
found the shoe floor, I quickly realised that
the acre of brightly coloured
summer shoes with mirrored stands
reflecting glittering lights was not where I wanted to be. I did a quick wiz around so I could pretend
to myself that I had looked . I went
onto the other shop, but it had no street front or wasnot there, so I went to
the next on my list . This was a material shop like nothing I have ever seen in
my life. Rows and rows and rows of material of all different sorts, some
ordinary – but all colours of ordinary -, some beautiful Italian wool etc . Most of the bolts had a safety pin sort of
thing with about 20 5 cm by 5 cm swatches
that you could take 1 of. There
were rules though, and some of the beautiful European fabrics did not have
any. Next was a shop called Muji – a
Japanese shop that sold storage containers, clothes, furniture – all sorts of
different things.
Then I came
back here and had lunch at one of my local cafes . I half listened to the people at the next table
discussing in Italian some other eating places in New York . I was looking at my book but not
turning the pages very often. I was surprised at how much I could
understand. This afternoon I pottered,
sorting myself out for tomorrow’s trip home.
I had
dinner at a nice small place ( same
block) that I have eaten at several times before. Apparently the owner went to
Byron Bay about 10 years or so ago for 2 weeks and stayed for 1 ½ years in
Australia. I had a glass of wine with my dinner , then decided to have desert
because it is my last evening and was given another glass of wine. It would
have been rude of me not to drink it! I
talked to the ‘mayor’ holding court on his step 2 doors away from mine for a while after
dinner and met some other locals as they went past. Very interesting. One lady
was saying that she was under the impression that Australians held American
culture in high regard. Hmmm. Tricky to
answer. I said that certain sections of our society may do, but not all. Bed time.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Tuesday Montauk
Yesterday I caught the bus to Montauk as planned. The time
was spent getting out of NY, speeding along a freeway down the middle of long
island, and then going slowly through the last
6 or so small towns before reaching Montauk, the most easterly town. As
i had hoped, it has a more low key feel to it than the other towns.
I arrived at a bit before 1 pm and was thinking about lunch.
i walked to the place i was staying at, 2km away. I have a nice room or rather 2small rooms
with a view past the verandah, cross the car park, cross the road, thru the 50m
of low scrub to the beach and breaking waves.
I asked the proprietor if he knew where I could get a lobster roll (
because i missed out the day before - i can justify anything). He said near the
wharf area. He was about to go into town so he gave me a lift. I knew I would have to walk a fair way back. I had a lovely lobster roll with a view of
fishing boats, a few people doing odd
jobs, a few boats coming in and out.
Great. Then I walked back to my b and b. The first 6 km was along a road with
just a row of houses between me and the water. There was a wide range of styles
- big and old, big and new, big and pseudo tudor, big and. ... Then I went
inland and the houses became more modest. I stopped for a coffee at the town
and got back here and relaxed for a while.
Because the season has not got going, and it was Monday,
there were no restaurants open between here and the main bit of the town, so
back I went to a place that was recommended, the other side of the town. It was
a lovely place on the edge of a lake with lovely views, looking into the setting sun.I had some
delicious baked clams and then a seafood plate that had salmon, scallops and
swordfish. Then I had what was described as a creme brulee taster - 5 eggcups
of 5 different flavours. They were big egg cups, but i had earned it. I walked
back, quite enough walking for the day.
I wondered what the gentle rhythmical sound was after i
turned my light out last night . I have
not enjoyed being lulled to sleep by waves in a while. This morning I enjoyed a stroll along
the beach, breakfast looking at the ocean and then a few hours of reading on
the verandah before heading back into
town, to catch the bus back to manhattan. My only regret is that I should have
had this mini-break last week. I got
back to Manhattan
at about 3 and a little souvenir
shopping on the way back here.
I have just looked I my little notebook that I jot odd
things in.
On the bus going towards Montauk we got offered a muffin or
a granola bar. This morning we got offered a choice of pretzels, chips or
goldfish. Goldfish? Apparently they are savoury cheese biscuits.
I chose chips.
One of the towns that had an exit off the freeway leading to
it was called Hicksville . I must find out if
Hick has any negative connotations here.
I had 2 maps of Montauk. One was badly not too scale and only
had some streets marked, the other was more to scale but the scale was not
marked,. It had more streets on it, but not all.
It was cold and very windy when I got to Montauk. I wished I
had taken my thermal pants, but it warmed up as the day got on and was quite
mild by the time I was walking back after dinner. Today it was mild in Montauk
and cold in NY.
Several days ago I saw a sightseeing bus that had about 4 rows of tiered seats longways down the bus. So everyone was
looking out the same side windows.
Technology is great. Several nights ago, sitting in
bed, I finished the book I was reading,
did not feel like starting the next bookclub book which I have on my
tablet, wanted an easy who dun-it, so
logged into my account at the Belconnen library and scrolled through the
available titles in the mystery section, downloaded one and started it – all
without getting out of bed in far away New York. I do have
the library’s Overdrive app installed.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Saturday and Sunday
Saturday was not a brilliant day. Sometimes being on my own,
away from home, gets to me a bit and I wonder why I am putting myself through
the effort involved.
I had a nice breakfast at a nearby ( 3 blocks) Le Pain
Quotidien – a bakery/café chain that has spread since last year. I like their
food. They have fruit salad, other healthy stuff as well as nice croissants and
other similar things. OK coffee. And lunch stuff. I went back to my room,
fiddled with photos and read more of my who-dun-it but could not silence the
voice in my head that said ‘get up and do something ( i.e. useful)’ So I did. I thought I would eat at the first
place that did not have a queue and then go into Central
Park and have a wander over more parts that I have not been
to. The first 4 places had queues, the
next was an Indian offering $10 talis . Peaceful and pleasant food. Mothers Day
is a big deal here, and brunch is
normally a big deal, hence cafes this weekend are doubly busy.
After wandering in Central Park
I went down to 52nd st to a shop I had read about.. The rain, which had stopped in the morning,
had started again. Thunder, tropical downpour sort of rain. Many contenders for
best wet T-shirt . I had my rain jacket, but ended up with wet shoes (again)
Then home for a Skype call with my daughter and her
husband.
Today, I have been back to normal. My fairly regular morning wake-up ( for me )
/ goodnight ( to him) call helped. Then
I went for coffee to one of the 2 very
local cafes that I alternate between but have neglected over the past few weeks
in favour of the other one. In part of the NY Times that I was reading there
was an article about a writer’s preference for solo travelling. It was
thought-provoking and several times I felt myself smiling in agreement.
Last year I walked twice , once at night and once in daytime,
along the High Line in Chelsea .
This is a stretch of about 4 km of a disused elevated freight line that has
been turned into a park. It is great.
Last year the first section had been finished , this year the second section ,
which was there last year , is now complete. It too has several places where
you can sit and watch the underlying streets, Lots of timber seats, nooks and crannies, interesting
art works. It was crowded, but not too so.
My intention was to have a lobster roll at a famous place in
Chelsea Market that I enjoyed last year. Chelsea Market is a big old disused (
I think biscuit ) factory that now houses lots of food shops and a few cafes
and a few homeware shops. And, on Sundays at noon , many many people. I quickly
scrapped the idea of a take away and decided to go into a nice restaurant .
Because it was relatively early (they had not been open for brunch) I got a
quiet seat at the end of the bar. I had 2 of 2 different sorts of oysters
and lobster bisque and a glass of pinot blanc. Not quite lobster roll, but
delicious. The young lady who served me was very helpful.
I forgot – walking around New York you pass many doormen – of fancy
hotels , of apartment buildings, of fancy shops – standing around outside their
building. Most of them deliberately try to avoid making eye contact or greeting you if you donot look like one of
their customers. On one of my several routes to one of the subway lines I have
a choice of, I pass the Beresford – Maid in Manhattan fame – a huge fancy hotel/apartment
building. It is on a corner and has 3
different doors and 3 different doorman. This morning one of them greeted me
cheerily ‘ Good Morning Ma’am, Happy Mothers Day’. I stopped and chatted to him
for a bit. He made me smile. I was pleased with myself that I refrained from the
obvious question ‘How do you know I am a mother?’
On my way home from Chelsea , at the same
corner as the Beresford , I saw a straggly bunch of elderly people from a
distance. I caught up to them. They were the Granny Peace Brigade. Banners, placards. They gave me
a brochure. Apparently the lady, Julia Ward Howe, credited with initiating
Mothers Day in 1870, was very anti-war. She wrote a poem against war – her
Mother’s Day Proclamation.
In the afternoon I organized
for tomorrow morning , a bus to Montauk ( pronounced Montork) , a room
at a B and B , and a return bus on
Tuesday. Montauk is on the Eastern end of Long Island . The wind and ocean will be good.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Photos
Jane's Carousel
My horse - with an attitude. Friendly eyes but with a bit of a snarl.
Lucky horses- to live with a view like that.
The Watertower
Great that kids have a 3 masted vessel to play on with the Brooklyn Bridge in the background.
Friday, May 10, 2013
Friday Carousel and Watertower
Today was a muddle. The sightseeing highlight came unexpectedly at
the end.
I had my morning cup of coffee at Bryant Park. I find it
easy to just sit there, not read or plan or even think much. I checked -new flowers in the ladies restroom.
I spent a while talking to a guy who was trying
to sell copies of his cookbook. We
talked mainly about soul food and how it is changing to accomodate more
modern tastes eg less fat. .I also looked at the books on the Reading Room
rack. There were several anthologies of author’s writings about New York . What a pity, I will have to go back and have a read. I walked to my next planned destination.
There is a new museum recently opened -a museum of maths (or rather math). I had planned to get
there when it opened at 10 . I got there more like 10.30 and was hit by a wall
of sound. Far too many school kids. No
thanks. The museum is on the edge of Madison
Square Park ,
where i had not been before, so I wandered around . There were lots of people
siting chatting, playing with kids, reading etc. There was an art installation
called Red, Yellow and Blue. I quote from the pamphlet "this work...envelops 3 lawns within
MSP with 1.4 million feet of undulating,
layered nautical rope covered in over 3500 gallons of paint". The
shapes were quite pleasing to look at. Sort of like waves or sand dunes.
I walked on, further south and stopped in at a giant homewares / furnishings shop, ABC Home
that I had been told about. It was full of lovely stuff. This was not on todays agenda, but it was
interesting. I looked in a few more shops on my way to The Broken Kilometre.
This is a place I tried to go to before and went to 393 broadway, not west
broadway. Not sure why i bothered.
It was rather peaceful in a weird way.
In a large bare rooom, timber floor, old white pillars with fancy tops,
tin ceiling, there are 500 highly polished round solid brass rods each 2M in
length and 5cm in diameter. The 500 rods are placed in 5 parallel rows of
100 rods each. I sat and looked at it
for a while. Then i walked to the housingworks cafe where i have been several
times before for lunch. On the way i had an ethical problem. There were 2 well
dressed women in front of me talking about going to this shop and that shop -
fancy brand names. One lady, the leader,
said to the other that one of the shops was in Prince street and Prince street is ahead and to the right.
No it is not, I thought. We past it several blocks ago. Would you like a look at my map? I thought. Should I have said anything? . They walked on
several blocks chatting to each other with me following. The leader stopped at
pedestrian stop lights ( as I did) and said to the
other 'you know what, i am lost' I looked around and saw that 2 young men standing nearby had heard her.
Both women had loud voices-i wasnot trying to eavesdrop. I was sure the men
would help, but i could have saved them several blocks of walking.
Lunch was a nice sandwich in very pleasant surroundings. Its
a good feeling when you like a place
once, then return and still like it. Doesnot always happen. I sat there for a
while thinking of everything and nothing
and everyone close to me and noone and decided i didnot want to go to the maths
museum. I decided to go to DUMBO an area Down Under
Manhatan and Brooklyn Overpass. Once again old warehouses being converted to
expensive apartments, little shops, interesting cafes. There is an interesting
foreshore ( ie. edge of east river ( I suppose a river can have a foreshore bit
it sounds a bit funny) ) park. Situated there is a lovely old carousel. This
carousel was originally built in 1922 and installed in Ohio . It was bought by a NY couple in 1983.
It was in bad disrepair. The carousel
was bought to NY and restoration started in 1985. It opened in September 2011. So, having set a precedent in Central Park , I had to have a ride. Much more frivolous
than the maths museum.
I wandered around the park a bit more and found a really
interesting sculpture. The Watertower. It is the same size as the 19th century
style wooden barrels used to store water on NY roofs. These water tanks are in
lots of iconic pictures of NY . This new watertower is made of 1000 scraps of
plexiglass. It reflects light in an
interesting way and apparently it is lit from the inside at night time. It was
only installed recently.
Home, dinner and now bed.. I will put some photos here tomorrow. I think I have a few good ones of
the watrertower with the Brooklyn bridge in
the background.
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Thursday - Rain in Williamsburg.
I came back
here for lunch and spent the afternoon catching up on a few emails, compiling a
list for my last 6 days and had an afternoon
nap.
In the
evening I went to the bookclub that the
knitting shop I like organises. It was good.
I was made very welcome, my views were asked for, interesting
discussion, friendly women.
A few odd things:
In a museum recently there was a sign on an exit door "Alarmed Exit" . I know what it means, but I did smile.
In a fancy jewellry shop on the Upper East Side the other day, I say a large life-like model of a zebra taking up a lot of the space. At the time I thought - another animal, but I cannot remember where else I have seen an animal in a jewellry shop. I think there must be a plague because yesterday I saw a large yak-like, again life size, animal. This one had fluroescent green hair. It was not the first animal that I saw. So I will keep my eyes peeled for a fourth animal in a jewelry shop..
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Wednesday Rubin Museum of Himalayan Art and a few others
This
morning I went to the Rubin Museum in Chelsea
after first stopping at one of the Café Grumpy chain of 4 cafes. I have been to one of these on the Lower
East Side . The chain was started by an Australian and they
understand ‘flat whites’.
The museum
was very interesting. It was opened
fairly recently and is built round a
large spiral staircase that was part of its previous life as part of Barney’s store .
The first
floor had a sort of introduction to both Buddhist and Hindu art of the region -
who the different people are ( e.g. Buddhas, Bodhisattivas, tantric deities,
wrathful deities etc) , how they are
represented and what do the different
representations mean etc. The second floor had things from the museums
permanent collection – paintings, textiles, objects.
The next
floor had a temporary exhibition about the Naga people (made up of quite a few
tribes) from the far NE of India on the border with the NW
corner of Burma .
They were head hunters - but only to
fight waring neighbouring tribes. A lot
of emphasis was placed on status and your achievements. The one garment you wore was a piece of cloth
that had details of who you were woven into the design – if you were the chef’s
wife, how many banquets for the poor you
had hosted , etc . Dare say you got a
new one if you were the chief’s wife and he got his head chopped off by a
marauding tribe. There were some of
these beautifully pieces of cloth on display. The next floor had an exhibition called ‘the flip side’. Tibetan art usually had a
lot of detail on the back.
Another
gallery had an interesting exhibition of photos taken by an American of what
were described as living shrines of the Uyghur people of far NW China. The
Uyghurs are Buddhist and build
structures in the desert with
upright poles resting against each other
with coloured flags . These ‘living shrines’ were called ‘mazars’ in the text describing the
photos. I had some nice soup in their
café.
Then I walked north to W27 where the Fashion
Institute of Technology is. They have a museum. The
first part with the historic costumes was interesting. There was an outfit for
a woman to ride a bike in in 1888 which had a very nice jacket and a pair of
trousers, though you would not have known – more like floor length culottes. Apparently the zip was first used in 1913 and
thenit was sometimes used on the outside. Not dissimilar to some tops I have
seen over the last few years. There was lots of modern stuff with all sorts of
computer-generated designed stuff. There was one black and white outfit –
sleeveless dress and matching tights made from fabric with a pattern based on
QR codes.
Then I
caught a subway to W 60 and walked a bit to the American Folk
Art Museum . I thought
this might be beautiful quilts, but no, it was mostly somebodies paintings ( he
was so unnoteworthy ( to me – or maybe I was getting tired) that I did not make
a note of his name and of course have not remembered his name.) of children and other people.
There was
nothing interesting in the shop either.
I walked
home, stopping to tell the mayor that Australia
was roughly 2500 miles wide and 2000 mile from top to bottom, excluding Tasmania . I had had to
look that up.
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Tuesday Bronx Zoo
Its 8.45pm
, I left for dinner , 130m away,at 6pm and I am just back. Dinner was
delicious, but I dawdled. It was lovely sitting in the window watching the
array of people pass by. I had a glass
of brouilly – a light French red that I
had never heard of. She was very
generous when she poured it. Mind you,
it is the third time I have been there. I also had desert. On the way back I
stopped and talked to a guy who sits on the steps often of the building 1 away
from me reading a book. I have watched everyone greet him as they pass. He is refered to as the mayor of W82. We
talked for ages. He travels on his own, grew up in New York , is widely read and knowledgable
about different parts of the world, is a software designer.
I had a
lovely day at the Bronx Zoo. I caught an express bus there, wandered around for
ages, did not always take notes or photos of signs so now have photos of
unknown animals, just enjoyed watching the animals play. They looked happy and content. I fell
asleep on the subway on the way home. I woke with a start, looked around with
no idea where we were or how long I’d been asleep for, a lady opposite me said
‘We’ve just past 125th
street ’ . Very thoughtful of her.
If you click on the photos, they will open up bigger.
Monday, May 6, 2013
Monday Neue Gallerie
Instead of
walking straight across Central Park I went
about 1 km south, then across and round
about ( I sat on a bench and watched
some water having a coffee) and then north along Madison Avenue. I did not go
into any of the 10 or 15 very fancy
shops I passed. I did slow down a bit and peer in but I never saw any customers
, in any of them. About half had a tall, skinny, young man standing near the door , I suppose to greet
potential customers. None of the woman's shops with a doorman had men’s clothing. There were other
shops too. Only 1 or 2 mens wear shops.
There were people in the second hand shop.
The Neue
Gallery has 2 floors of about 4 rooms each, showing Austrian and German
painters. All but 2 of the rooms were closed for a new installation. They had moved some of the more popular
paintings i.e. some of the Klimts into the 2
rooms, adding to what was there before.
There were quite a few people trying to look at crowded together
paintings. There were several Klimts that I liked.
On the way
out I looked at my map before I went outside to see which way through CP I
would walk – I was not going to go directly across. The doorman tried to help.
He told me it would be much easier to catch a bus because it was too far to walk across the
park! Do I look that old? Instead of
walking directly ( about 900 m) I walked
along more of Madison Ave and a roundabout route through the park ( about 3 km)
, getting back to my local cafes for a late nice lunch of salmon and Israeli
couscous.
Sunday, May 5, 2013
Sunday – Another day of rest
I went for
a longish walk this morning along Riverside
Drive – the stretch of park running down the west
side of Manhattan .
It was quite pleasant, despite the noise of the 6 lanes of cars. I had lunch in
a café overlooking one of the few marinas. The food was nondescript. I paid for
the view!. Later in the afternoon I had
a cup of coffee in Central Park . Only 2 more
bridges to go.
1 man and 8 well-behaved dogs!
Self portrait
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Saturday Brighton Beach and frivolous treat
This
morning I went by train to Brighton Beach in the south of
Brooklyn . It took about 1 ¼ hours. This is a Russian part of New York .
In May 37 years ago John and I spent 4 weeks in the then Soviet Union . About 2 ½
of these weeks were in Russia .
Lots of things brought back memories of that time – the old scarf-clad ladies
with their large handbags queued up to buy things on the pavement, the slightly
garish shops, the slightly dated feel of everything and everybody. The shops
were all much better stocked though. The elevated train clattering down the main
street added to the ambience!
I had
looked up beforehand and stopped at a café that had good reviews. The menu
displayed in the window was in Russian with poor English translations, at 12.15
it was 2/3 full of people who looked very Russian and it was called Oceanview
Café. The ocean was several blocks away, certainly not in view of the café. Ah
well, I had to eat somewhere. Noone
else was speaking English – the first
waiter spoke very little English and got another waiter for me. I had solyanka soup. John and I spent 4 days
on the Trans Sberian train and we had solyanka – or meat soup as it was
translated- for lunch and dinner. Very
little else was available I seem to remember. We played a game called ‘spot the meat’ . Sometimes we
found a bit, sometimes we did not. Today I probably had more meat than I eat in
a month in my soup. I also ordered some
vareniki.. I donot specifically remember them in Russia , but one of my sons-in-law
speaks of his grandmother making them. They were good too. Somehow I dredged up
the Russian for ‘thank you’ from the depths of my brain which was accurate
enough to be recognisable and went down well.
The main
street of Brighton
Beach is a block away from
the water. There is a wide boardwalk which goes for several kilometres along
the coast. For part of the way there were large
boring brown blocks of flats right next to the board walk and then Coney
Island – another Luna
Park , only with many
more rides. There was a large expanse of sand and flat water. The beach,
however was closed. There are signs
everywhere – only swim if the lifeguards are on duty. Lifeguards are on duty
from 10am to 6 pm from Memorial day ( the last Monday in May) to Labour day (
the 1st Monday in September). Visitors are also supposed to be off the beach
from 9pm to 6am. About 3 months of the
year – very European.
For the
whole 2 kilometres , I only saw a few other hats on females. Men seem to be
more sensible. I did however see several women sporting an interesting nose
cover , always white, attached to their
glasses.
I had read
about the Wonder Wheel and decided a ride would be quite frivolous enough to
satisfy my FFs. The Wonder wheel
was opened in 1920 and is 150ft
tall. Apparently it was the tallest in the world until the London Eye was
built. It has different coloured cages. The white ones donot swing and the blue
and red ones swing. I chose a white one. I looked carefully at how it was made
before I got on, but when the cage I was
in was at its highest I was just a tad apprehensive. It seemed like I was stuck
out in space with nothing to support my cage and the ground was a long way away.
After my
ride I realised that it would be quite
inappropriate not to have a cone on Coney Island .
There was no queue for icecreams but there were 8 lines of about 6 people
in each line queued up at Nathan’s Hot
Dog stand. ( Except you donot queue up for anything here , you ‘line up’ ) Apparently ages ago Nathan invented the
hot dog. There were at least 5 other
stands that I saw along the boardwalk all selling the same sorts of fried stuff
and hot dogs with not many customers. Most of the people queued up looked like locals
– like all the locals that queued outside the place near me.
Nathan’s
did sell fish and chips – the first time I have
seen f and c on takeaway menu.
I came back
here on a different subway line. For the
first half hour or so it was elevated and ran along a mainish road, so I
did get an idea of the different ethnic
groups and different housing along the route..
I had to change trains at Bryant Park so went and got a coffee and read
a magazine in the quite crowded but still very pleasant ‘readiing room’ . I
made a mistake though. Supposedly you donot tip for takeaways, but quite a few
people leave their change coins in the tip jar. Sometimes I do. Today , while I was waiting, I
was idly wondering why there were so many notes in the tip jar. I had my money ready and was surprised when
she said the price . It was less. It was happy hour and the drinks were half
price. I pocketed my change, but many people must have put their change in the
tip jar. Next time I will know.
Friday, May 3, 2013
Friday No plans and Dyckman Farmhouse
Last night,
for the first time in 3 weeks , I went
to sleep with no idea of what I would do today. I do have a list of 'must do' and 'like to do' s though. This morning, after a slow start and less planning than normal I set off
north along Central Park West on the bus to find some of the scattered
remaining bridges. Several buses later and I was still travelling north on the
bus and got off at 125 th street
– the old traditional heart of Harlem . I had
been warned that it was full of cheap chain stores. That it was. I had not planned
the timing properly , nor taken my
emergency supply of nuts, needed food and could see nowhere to get food. There must have
been – I had the choice of 4 directions to walk in and , instead of asking
someone, chose to get the subway further north to my destination, Inwood, on
the northern tip of Manhattan .
I emerged
from the subway at Inwood and could see no food places. Normally I am pretty good at spotting places
to eat. Then I saw nearby a mother with
a pram enter a place that , when I got nearer,
I saw said ‘Lunch and Dinner’ -
that was the only sign I could see on the outside. I followed her. It was like
a time warp. 1960’s country. I had a mushroom omelette which came with fried
bits of potato and toast. There was no
salad on the menu.
The Dyckman Farmhouse Museum
is at Inwood. It is the only Dutch colonial homestead in Manhattan .
Jan Dyckman established a farm here in the 1660’s. It was destroyed in
the Revolutionary War and rebuilt in 1784 by his grandson William. It seemed
typical to me of old farmhouses everywhere. The only thing a bit Dutch-like was the front and back doors had
an independently opening top and
bottom half.. I wandered around, chatted
to the nice young lady who worked there, sat on a bench in the grounds and then
caught the subway back here.
Later:
It is now
10.15 pm and I have just arrived home via subway( crowded train) and foot ( other people about) after having a
drink and dinner with the cousin of a friend with whom I went to Staten Island last weekend. It was most enjoyable.
Thursday, May 2, 2013
Thursday Noguchi Museum in Queens and some duds
In my
efforts to visit all 5 of the boroughs ,
today I went to Queens . I had
to change trains at Bryant Park , so I thought I would save my first morning
coffee for there. ( you donot generally come out of the subway to change
trains but I have a monthly pass so it did not matter) . I like
Bryant Park. All the way there I had been looking forward to some fruit
salad. Trouble is there was none available today. Nevermind, I spent my time looking at
an interior design magazine of houses significantly more up-market than mine. This magazine was
from the rack available for people to borrow in the Reading Room of the park. I
had intended to finish my postcards.
I caught
the train to Long Island City – the part of Queens just over the East river
from Roosevelt Island - and walked a fair way to the museum. It houses some of the work of Isamu
Noguchi ( 1904 to 1988) the influential Japanese American designer and
sculptor. Several people I know have copies of his furniture. The museum
focussed on his large stone sculptures – some bigger than me. I particularly
liked the basalt ones . They often had many different colours in them. There
was a courtyard with more sculptures and a Japanese inspired garden. I sat on a bench for a while. It was very
peaceful. Then I had a mushroom wrap and chatted to a lady from Los Angeles . She was born
there to Japanese parents and had met the sculptor. She was 85 and still travelling the world on
her own. A small spritely woman.
I back
tracked on the train a few stops so that I could take the number 7 to Flushing,
the end of the line in Queens – to the NE of
Manhattan. I had read that from the train – part of the subway system but the
only thing it was ‘sub’ to was the sky – you could see the different
ethnic communities along the route.
Maybe so if you had x-ray glasses that
could see through the factories, run-down buildings, occasional new apartment
blocks etc that lined the route. I got to the end and came straight back. It was a waste of time and I was a bit grumpy
when I got to my next destination – still in Queens, but back near Manhattan – an art
gallery called PS1 which is an offshoot of MoMA. A dud. It has 3 floors and some outside of
installation space and it was just about all closed for new installations going
in. Why the guy I spoke to yesterday at MoMA did not tell me I donot know. The
elevator was also not working and my knees are sore. I climbed to the top floor
( there were some black silhouettes on the white walls of the stairwell) and found the only thing there – a work by
James Turrell ( he who did the green
dome thing in the front of the NGA). Trouble is, it was a small room with no
roof and what seemed like plywood seats round 3 sides – nothing much in
comparison. The lady in the foyer ( who
was also grumpy) said there was more in the basement. More steps! I found the
room – an old boiler room with lots of old big machinery – and finally found an
inscription. I did not write down the name of the work, but the medium was
‘gold paint and human spit’. No
explanation of the significance. I
looked further and realised that some of the old machinery was painted in gold paint.
That is
clearly enough for the day I thought, and set off back to the train station without much
thought. After too long I realised I was
walking in the wrong direction and finally got back to the station. I walked
along 2 long sides of a very pointy
isosceles triangle. I got off the train at
my stop and came up the stairs and realised that at least I can come out the correct
( i.e. closest) exit without thinking now.
The postcards had to be written so I stopped for a coffee and a biscuit – a good
experience.
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Tuesday night Guilio Cesare , Wednesday MoMA
I
thoroughly enjoyed the opera last night. It was a mix of comedy, tragedy ,
wonderful singing, dancing, amazing costumes, interesting, sometimes quirky
sets. It was long – started at 7pm and
finished at 11.45 with 2 intervals.
After a
slow start this morning, I went to another area of Central
Park to look at a few more bridges. There are less people around
in the morning. Then I stopped in at
another wholefood shop I had heard about. It was even better than the last with
a huge range of products.
Today’s aim
was MoMA – Museum
of Modern Art . I paid my entrance and went to get an audio
guide, groaned at all the signs saying ‘ photo id necessary’ . When it was my
turn, I politely said I had no photo id, but I did have my National Trust card
with my name on it. She said, without any hesitation, ‘that’s fine, we know
overseas people often do not have photo id with them’ Quite different to the Whitney and Morgan Library.
I first
looked at the paintings of the artists I have been reading about. There were
several Jackson Pollacks, several Piet Mondrians and a few Rothkos. I looked at
some other paintings and then it was time for lunch. I went back and looked at an interesting
exhibition of a French architect Henri Labrouste 1801 to 1875. I had never
heard of him but he was hugely influential in all sorts of things. This exhibition focussed on the 2 big
libraries ( public I think) he designed
in Paris . He
was the first to make spaces for ordinary people to go and read books and to
even borrow them. Before that,
books and libraries were usually
only available to people at the institution where the library was situated e.g. university or church.
I looked at
a few more things and was on my way out when I saw in the last gallery – ‘a
modern design that is useful ‘ gallery - what looked like a big ball made out
of sink plungers all sticking out of a central hub with the black plastic bit
on the outside edge. I got closer and saw that the ‘handles’ were bamboo and
the outside bits were flat and a bit more complicated. It is a Mine Kafon Wind-Powered Deminer
designed by a Dutch man born in Afghanistan Massoud Hassani in 1983 ( quite
young) . ( Kafon means explosion in
Dari) . It rolls over land, powered by the wind, has a GPS chip in it recording
the safe path. If it detonates a mine, it partially destructs but is
salvageable and easily fixed in the field.
Large scale they expect the cost to be about $40. How good would that be?
I spent
time in MoMA’s gift shop. I get annoyed
with myself every trip. I have enough money to buy each of my family members a
nice token from my trip, but not enough confidence or shopping expertise or colour and style observation to know what
is a bit different here and what they would like. Maybe I am just not good at risk-taking.
I got the
subway back to this part and stopped at one of my favourites for coffee and
cake. I was going to finish writing postcards, but got talking to another lady
who , though a bit younger than me, probably late 40s, travels on her own. We were talking of the difficulties single
women have . She had lived in Switzerland
and said that there it was not done to sit in a bar to wait for someone even if
only 5 minutes. She had chosen New York as a city to
live in, primarily because of its acceptance of single people. She had read
Alain de Botton’s Art of Travelling, as I have,
and agreed with the comments made about the benefits of travelling on
your own.
I have
changed my guidelines on my café ‘research’ . I have been to the 6 places to
get food in my block. 1 is a pub – i.e. emphasis on drinking and OK, but
ordinary food. 2 are take aways. Nice, but I can get takeaways in the suburb I
live most of my life in. Of the 4 blocks
I can get to by crossing 1 road, I have been to 8 of the 18 eating places. I will go to a few more if I want to , but I
have decided that I donot have to go to
a takeaway just because it is there, nor a noisy pub, nor a new café/restaurant.
Tonight I went to one of the small nice places in my block. I think it was a
week ago I was there and the lady greeted me
‘ Hullo, I’m pleased you’ve come
again’ .
Now it is
knitting time before bed– I have a
garment on the go , but not socks. The saga of the socks can wait for another
time.
Tuesday 30th Eldridge St Museum Synagogue
This
morning I went to the Lower East Side / Chinatown
area again to a museum that I had read about. I went on a tour led by very well-informed elderly impeccably dressed
Jewish lady.
Between 1880 and 1920 2 ½ million Eastern
European Jews migrated to the NY, specifically the LES. In 1887 a Synagogue was
built in which the predominantly Orthodox community could worship. By the late 1940’s it closed because most of
the Jews had moved to Brooklyn and else where
, out of the crowded tenement area where migrants first lived when they
arrived. It fell into disrepair until the 1970’s ( I think) when it was
completely restored to its original state , with the exception of one large stained
glass window which was installed last year. It has a combination of Moorish, Gothic and
Romanesque architecture- sounds a mish-mash but I quite liked it. We started on the bottom floor where they had their weekday services and then looked at the
main floor and then the balcony area where
the women were relegated to.
There were photos and other bits of pieces about the past. Now only the bottom floor is used for all the
services, except on special days. Our guide talked about the reasons for
different of the Jewish practises. She herself belongs to a progressive Jewish community. They have
a female rabbi.
I went to
the Housingworks café for coffee and muffin again. There was a sign on the
tables that said the usual – No food from elsewhere, Don’t just sit using the internet at lunch
and also ‘ Please bus your table’ . I
had no idea at all. I asked. It means, ‘clear the rubbish off your table and
put it in the bin.’ How come? Apparently the people who empty the bins are
called ‘bus boys’ , why ? no-one could
tell me.
I wandered
rather aimlessly around Soho for a while and
then came back here and had a late lunch at a Japanese restaurant (cross 1
street).
This
afternoon I wandered around the rambles – another part of Central
Park and now I getting ready to go to the opera – Handel’s Guilio
Cesare
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