Saturday, September 13, 2014
Home safely
Yesterday evening I arrived home at 11 pm, 35 hours after I left my hotel in Bristol. I paid no attention to the time zones and when I should be sleeping to fit quickly back into routine here. I had an excellent sleep on the aeroplane but 5 hours later , in Canberra I could not sleep at all. Hopefully tonight.
Thursday, September 11, 2014
Last day in Bristol
Very briefly because I am running out of free wifi time ...
Yesterday evening I went to evensong at the cathedral. The choir was the boys from from the choir school. Several were new. It showed. Several were old hands and it was good to watch and hear them enjoying themselves doing a good job of the 4 parts of the anthem.
Today I wandered around an upmarket area of Bristol - Clifton Hill, had coffee, looked in some dress shops but they were too upmarket and walked on the the Clifton Suspension Bridge over the Avon Gorge. Quite spectacular and a bit scary walking over it. I walked back into Bristol through an area of bush call Leigh Woods and along part of the Avon trail that goes along the Avon from Avonmouth to Bath.
Lunch at a pub with a nice view.
Soon I am going to meet John's brother- in- laws niece, then pack up then get some sleep before leaving this hotel at 3.30ish tomorrow morning to come home.
Yesterday evening I went to evensong at the cathedral. The choir was the boys from from the choir school. Several were new. It showed. Several were old hands and it was good to watch and hear them enjoying themselves doing a good job of the 4 parts of the anthem.
Today I wandered around an upmarket area of Bristol - Clifton Hill, had coffee, looked in some dress shops but they were too upmarket and walked on the the Clifton Suspension Bridge over the Avon Gorge. Quite spectacular and a bit scary walking over it. I walked back into Bristol through an area of bush call Leigh Woods and along part of the Avon trail that goes along the Avon from Avonmouth to Bath.
Lunch at a pub with a nice view.
Soon I am going to meet John's brother- in- laws niece, then pack up then get some sleep before leaving this hotel at 3.30ish tomorrow morning to come home.
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Bristol
This morning I walked a long way around some of the waterways to the M Shed. I passed some nice waterfront terraces on quiet backwaters. M shed is a converted shed on the waterfront. As well as the displays inside there are all sorts of old boats, moored alongside, that you can visit on certain days. When we were in Bristol before Noel flew home we saw the fire fighting boat taking people for rides. As available is an old diesel tug which looked interesting.
Inside the M Shed there were 3 main rooms - Bristol places, Bristol People and Bristol life . There were lots of interesting things. Trouble is, a large group of 6 to 7 year old school children arrived. They were not silent! Time for coffee. All the kids had high visibilty vests on, as did all the accompanying adults. The same style of vests. Maybe it is a common practice, but I have never seen it before. Great for easy identification.
The museum had a biggish display about how Bristol was involved in the slave trade .
I then went on to a gallery called the Arnolfini. It was not very interesting to me - models of the redevelopment of Bristol, a series of interviews with people living in a high rise apartment and some other odd things.
I walked on to Bristol Cathedral. They have a cafe with tables in the gardens at the base of the tall walls of the cathedral. Very pleasant. I read about it, then wandered around after lunch. It started as an abbey in 1140 and was added to at odd times. In 1542 it became a cathedral.
I then went to an 18th century georgian House that was the home of a prominent merchant. It had lots of rooms all decorated in the style of the period.
I walked back through an old area of little quirky shops and through an old market building with lots of little stalls, mostly junk but some a bit different.
Inside the M Shed there were 3 main rooms - Bristol places, Bristol People and Bristol life . There were lots of interesting things. Trouble is, a large group of 6 to 7 year old school children arrived. They were not silent! Time for coffee. All the kids had high visibilty vests on, as did all the accompanying adults. The same style of vests. Maybe it is a common practice, but I have never seen it before. Great for easy identification.
The museum had a biggish display about how Bristol was involved in the slave trade .
I then went on to a gallery called the Arnolfini. It was not very interesting to me - models of the redevelopment of Bristol, a series of interviews with people living in a high rise apartment and some other odd things.
I walked on to Bristol Cathedral. They have a cafe with tables in the gardens at the base of the tall walls of the cathedral. Very pleasant. I read about it, then wandered around after lunch. It started as an abbey in 1140 and was added to at odd times. In 1542 it became a cathedral.
I then went to an 18th century georgian House that was the home of a prominent merchant. It had lots of rooms all decorated in the style of the period.
I walked back through an old area of little quirky shops and through an old market building with lots of little stalls, mostly junk but some a bit different.
Tuesday with my cousin
I went by train ( 2.5 hours) to Milton Keynes where my cousin John and his wife Dawn picked me up as arranged. We talked about everything and nothing for 5 hours till they took me back to the train station for me to reverse the journey back to Bristol. It was good to catch up.
We went to a modern English pub. This was an ordinary ish building, modern, with several outdoor spaces. Inside was one big irregular shaped space, but separated into bar, lounge, dining spaces that were separate but merged into each other. It was not a cafe or restaurant or bar , definitely an English pub feel. But why?
On the station waiting for my train home I was put off by a high speed through train hurtling through. After it went I saw the sign where the people like me waiting on the platform for a later train were warned about its imminent arrival. Several more came through. My instinct was to grab for something to hold onto, the air was quite disturbed and the noise deafening. There was a sign saying that the speed of the through trains could be up to 125mph. Dare say you get used to it.
On the train there are automatic toilets, like are appearing in some shopping places . Press a button to open the door, press a button to close the door, remember to press another button to lock the door etc etc This is accompanied by assorted verbal reminders as to what to do, which you tend to ignore , there are so many creating in to life 'mind the step', 'doors closing', 'floor 3' etc etc. Back to the point. In the loo , there was a voice telling me what not to put into the toilet. I heard 'unpaid bills' and started to listen. I was also told not to flush away my 'ex s sweater, hopes, and unwanted goldfish'. I did not like to leave my seat for too long but was very tempted to go out and start all over again to hear what else was on the list.
We went to a modern English pub. This was an ordinary ish building, modern, with several outdoor spaces. Inside was one big irregular shaped space, but separated into bar, lounge, dining spaces that were separate but merged into each other. It was not a cafe or restaurant or bar , definitely an English pub feel. But why?
On the station waiting for my train home I was put off by a high speed through train hurtling through. After it went I saw the sign where the people like me waiting on the platform for a later train were warned about its imminent arrival. Several more came through. My instinct was to grab for something to hold onto, the air was quite disturbed and the noise deafening. There was a sign saying that the speed of the through trains could be up to 125mph. Dare say you get used to it.
On the train there are automatic toilets, like are appearing in some shopping places . Press a button to open the door, press a button to close the door, remember to press another button to lock the door etc etc This is accompanied by assorted verbal reminders as to what to do, which you tend to ignore , there are so many creating in to life 'mind the step', 'doors closing', 'floor 3' etc etc. Back to the point. In the loo , there was a voice telling me what not to put into the toilet. I heard 'unpaid bills' and started to listen. I was also told not to flush away my 'ex s sweater, hopes, and unwanted goldfish'. I did not like to leave my seat for too long but was very tempted to go out and start all over again to hear what else was on the list.
Monday, September 8, 2014
Bristol
This morning I was disappointed to leave my nice b and b in St Ives. I was well looked after. Yesterday I asked if today i could have a cheese sandwich to take for lunch instead of my cooked breakfast. No problem. The train ride was uneventful and I arrived at the hotel at 2 .10.
I do not know what possessed me to book this hotel. I wondered why it was cheap when I booked, and the when I found out they were renovating the rooms I could have pulled out. I could not book in till 2.30 and they would not hold my luggage, I had to pay on the spot because my credit card was an overseas one or some peculiar reason or other, I had trouble with the internet , of course it was not free, and do not know if my payment has gone through twice, the iron and iron board I asked to borrow were really old and dodgy and as for the room... I was told that tomorrow the bed will be replaced.
I set off for a walk and found, within 200 m 2 modern deli / coffee places both of which have character and serve breakfast so I will not have to eat at the canteen like barn of a place that is next to reception. I tried the coffee at one and it is the best coffee I have had in the UK. I walked on through lots of the nice areas ( a few less nice areas I walked through I will be careful to avoid at night). The Avon that flows through Bristol has been split to make more waterways and they curve around and around making lots of water views. There is a real mix of old and new- old barges moored in front of modern apartment blocks, or new boats in front of derelict buildings. Lots of young people, bicycles, bicycle lanes on the roads, bright dark blue taxis, bright yellow barge like ferries. A nice vibe.
As compensation for the dodgy room I decided I could have a nice dinner where ever I wanted. I chose a floating barge. I had a good view of the passing water craft , an excellent meal, a nice dry rose made from grolleau grapes, but a very slightly off feeling the whole time. I guess the motion.
I do not know what possessed me to book this hotel. I wondered why it was cheap when I booked, and the when I found out they were renovating the rooms I could have pulled out. I could not book in till 2.30 and they would not hold my luggage, I had to pay on the spot because my credit card was an overseas one or some peculiar reason or other, I had trouble with the internet , of course it was not free, and do not know if my payment has gone through twice, the iron and iron board I asked to borrow were really old and dodgy and as for the room... I was told that tomorrow the bed will be replaced.
I set off for a walk and found, within 200 m 2 modern deli / coffee places both of which have character and serve breakfast so I will not have to eat at the canteen like barn of a place that is next to reception. I tried the coffee at one and it is the best coffee I have had in the UK. I walked on through lots of the nice areas ( a few less nice areas I walked through I will be careful to avoid at night). The Avon that flows through Bristol has been split to make more waterways and they curve around and around making lots of water views. There is a real mix of old and new- old barges moored in front of modern apartment blocks, or new boats in front of derelict buildings. Lots of young people, bicycles, bicycle lanes on the roads, bright dark blue taxis, bright yellow barge like ferries. A nice vibe.
As compensation for the dodgy room I decided I could have a nice dinner where ever I wanted. I chose a floating barge. I had a good view of the passing water craft , an excellent meal, a nice dry rose made from grolleau grapes, but a very slightly off feeling the whole time. I guess the motion.
Sunday walk to Lelant
On Sunday I set off on a short easy , 6 km one way walk to Lelant and then back, along another section of the SW Coastal Path. There were a few hilly sections but mostly it went along paths through the bush or sand dunes. There were no rocks, mud or large boulders to deal with. Lelant is SE of St Ives on the Hayle Estruary. It was a pretty, gentle walk with views of the water, cliffs, tidal sand flats, hang gliders distant coastline etc.
At Lelant I went into a little old church , St Uny. Tthe 11 th century church had been added to. It was clearly an active community, lots of kids activities, mothers groups etc Then I walked on to a pub for a drink. I sat down at a table and was surprised by a huge great done taking up several seats at the table on the other side of a partition to me. All the locals came in and greeted him as if he was a permanent fixture.
On the way back I stopped for lunch at a cafe and had nice pizza. I got talking to a couple from Bristol who were staying in the area. I walked with them back to St Ives and then pottered around with them for a bit.
At Lelant I went into a little old church , St Uny. Tthe 11 th century church had been added to. It was clearly an active community, lots of kids activities, mothers groups etc Then I walked on to a pub for a drink. I sat down at a table and was surprised by a huge great done taking up several seats at the table on the other side of a partition to me. All the locals came in and greeted him as if he was a permanent fixture.
On the way back I stopped for lunch at a cafe and had nice pizza. I got talking to a couple from Bristol who were staying in the area. I walked with them back to St Ives and then pottered around with them for a bit.
Saturday Art galleries in St Ives
On Saturday I went first to the Barbara Hepworth museum. I had never heard of her. It was interesting to read of her long and productive life and to see the influence of other modern artists on her work. I liked her sculptures . They were interesting shapes. She lived in St Ives for quite a while and there is a museum of her life and some of her works in the attached garden. She was commissioned to make a large sculpture that stands outside the United Nations building in New York. Despite spending 5 weeks there last year, I never went to the UN headquarters.
There is an outpost of the Tate in St Ives. Usually I read about a building and it's design first, but not this time. It seemed an odd arrangement of curved narrow galleries, open spaces, though if you went sequentially, the paintings made some sense. I read, while I was having coffee after looking at the paintings that the design of the building was based on an old boiler that was on the site and the narrow windy lanes of St ives. That made sense.
I ambled around for the rest of the day enjoying being on a holiday.
There is an outpost of the Tate in St Ives. Usually I read about a building and it's design first, but not this time. It seemed an odd arrangement of curved narrow galleries, open spaces, though if you went sequentially, the paintings made some sense. I read, while I was having coffee after looking at the paintings that the design of the building was based on an old boiler that was on the site and the narrow windy lanes of St ives. That made sense.
I ambled around for the rest of the day enjoying being on a holiday.
Friday, September 5, 2014
Friday. Walk to Lamorna
Today I set off by bus to Penzance expecting to have 5 minutes before leaving on another bus to Mousehole. The bus from mousehole came in, dropped his passengers, drove round to the outgoing side of the platform, looked at the motley assembled group and switched his sign to 'out of service' and drove off. There was great outrage from the locals. I thought, oh well, another is scheduled to come in half an hour. It did.
Mousehole is much smaller than St Ives, same grey stone with some timber and white paint cottages, narrow streets, houses opening directly onto the street into traffics way, twisted alleyways, brightly coloured boats in the harbour.
I set off as planned along the SW Coastal Path towards Lamorna. It was about 6 km of mostly easier walking than Wednesday. After about half an hour I realised I had not seen anyone else at much the same time as I came to a hilly down stretch of rocks to be dealt with. Not as big as boulders, but big enough not to be able to walk down like steps. Along came Rick from the USA. He was walking the whole coastal path. He was a great advocate of poles and showed me how he used them climbing up the bit I had just climbed down. More investigation needed.
I continued on and got to some most unpleasant bits . The path was very narrow and the edge of the side of the cliff very close. It was a long way down to the water. Obviously, I made it. I got to Lamorna Cove , did not like the look of the touristy cafe so went inland to the village, well, really just a pub, of Lamorna. Most of the people in the pub were locals. I had a delicious crab sandwich.
I decided that I would return to Mousehole via the minor road rather than the coast. Another option was to walk along the public footpath that was marked on my map. It was more direct but went through fields which may have cows in them. I was not keen on that possibility. Just as I was thinking of leaving, a lady and her Old English sheepdog came along and started talking to this other local about the best way to Mousehole. I joined them. It turned out she had been warned about some sections of the path that had been affected in a recent storm and may be too narrow for her and the dog. I agreed. Robert suggested to her the route across the fields. After a fair bit of chit chat, she and I and Lucy the dog set off across the fields and through some farms. We had to go through several fields with cows and I was very pleased I was not on my own. She was from a bit further north in Cornwall and grew up on a cow farm. She made some very funny, most peculiar 'shoo, go away' noises. She was doing about 200 miles of the SW Coastal Path as a fundraiser for a few charities. We decided that I could 'give ' her my section of her trip because she could not have safely done it with her dog. She was walking to Marazion for the night but was stopping at Mousehole for a few hours break and was met by 2 of her support team for encouragement and company. I met them too and we chatted till my bus came.
I have just been reading the official site of the SW Coastal Path and it puts the St Ives to Zennor walk in th challenging category , as in easy, moderate or challenging.
Mousehole is much smaller than St Ives, same grey stone with some timber and white paint cottages, narrow streets, houses opening directly onto the street into traffics way, twisted alleyways, brightly coloured boats in the harbour.
I set off as planned along the SW Coastal Path towards Lamorna. It was about 6 km of mostly easier walking than Wednesday. After about half an hour I realised I had not seen anyone else at much the same time as I came to a hilly down stretch of rocks to be dealt with. Not as big as boulders, but big enough not to be able to walk down like steps. Along came Rick from the USA. He was walking the whole coastal path. He was a great advocate of poles and showed me how he used them climbing up the bit I had just climbed down. More investigation needed.
I continued on and got to some most unpleasant bits . The path was very narrow and the edge of the side of the cliff very close. It was a long way down to the water. Obviously, I made it. I got to Lamorna Cove , did not like the look of the touristy cafe so went inland to the village, well, really just a pub, of Lamorna. Most of the people in the pub were locals. I had a delicious crab sandwich.
I decided that I would return to Mousehole via the minor road rather than the coast. Another option was to walk along the public footpath that was marked on my map. It was more direct but went through fields which may have cows in them. I was not keen on that possibility. Just as I was thinking of leaving, a lady and her Old English sheepdog came along and started talking to this other local about the best way to Mousehole. I joined them. It turned out she had been warned about some sections of the path that had been affected in a recent storm and may be too narrow for her and the dog. I agreed. Robert suggested to her the route across the fields. After a fair bit of chit chat, she and I and Lucy the dog set off across the fields and through some farms. We had to go through several fields with cows and I was very pleased I was not on my own. She was from a bit further north in Cornwall and grew up on a cow farm. She made some very funny, most peculiar 'shoo, go away' noises. She was doing about 200 miles of the SW Coastal Path as a fundraiser for a few charities. We decided that I could 'give ' her my section of her trip because she could not have safely done it with her dog. She was walking to Marazion for the night but was stopping at Mousehole for a few hours break and was met by 2 of her support team for encouragement and company. I met them too and we chatted till my bus came.
I have just been reading the official site of the SW Coastal Path and it puts the St Ives to Zennor walk in th challenging category , as in easy, moderate or challenging.
Thursday St Michaels Mount
Yesterday I caught a bus to Marazion and then, because it was high tide and the causeway was submerged, a boat to St Michaels Mount. This has been , over time, a monastery, a fortress, a port and a family home. Now administration is by the national trust. They have also found bronze age implements so there have been people for ages.
I climbed up the many steps and wandered through the rooms that were on display but was not particularly interested. The most interesting part was the tiny chapel. It had an interesting altar cloth and a cross above the altar that Jesus was not attached to but somehow set forward from. I peered over the parapets, as suggested , to look at the gardens below. These have apparently been designed to be seen from above as well as below. I wandered around these gardens and then caught another boat , wandered around Marazion, then came back by a different bus route. Different things to see.
I climbed up the many steps and wandered through the rooms that were on display but was not particularly interested. The most interesting part was the tiny chapel. It had an interesting altar cloth and a cross above the altar that Jesus was not attached to but somehow set forward from. I peered over the parapets, as suggested , to look at the gardens below. These have apparently been designed to be seen from above as well as below. I wandered around these gardens and then caught another boat , wandered around Marazion, then came back by a different bus route. Different things to see.
Thursday, September 4, 2014
Wednesday walk St Ives to Zennor
I set off straight after breakfast to walk a small part of the SW Coastal Path. It was 11 km of up, down, up down, rocks, mud and I loved it. Amazing scenery, seals playing in the little coves way down below, other people to say hello to on the path. There was lots of yellow gorse and purple heather , all mixed together. There were negatives - there was a bush that looked like a prickly version of westringia and it seemed to grow everywhere I put a hand out for support on a steep up or down bit and where the path was very narrow it stuck out into the path and easily got through my thin trousers. I also find it harder than I used to scrabbling over big rocks, takes more time and energy .
I had not done any aerobic exercise for 4 weeks or so and decided early on I would push myself. Several people had said the walk would take 3 to 4 hours of walking for a fit person. I took 3 hours plus stops - to take photos, look at seals, drink etc. Zennor is a pretty little town with some houses, a church and a pub doing a roaring trade for the visitors, mostly who came by car, and a cafe. After a nice lunch - I learnt what homity pie is - I caught the bus back to St Ives.
In the evening I went to a restaurant near here that has the reputation of being the best beachside cafe in St Ives. Mostly restaurants are booked out, but I so far I have turned up at 5. 45 and got the last table each time. Wednesday was no exception. I had a lovely meal overlooking the harbour and a sailing race of 4 smallish boats. I had brill, another different fish. I was told after wards that Judi Dench dines there with her daughter and family every so often. Her daughter has a house at Zennor.
I had not done any aerobic exercise for 4 weeks or so and decided early on I would push myself. Several people had said the walk would take 3 to 4 hours of walking for a fit person. I took 3 hours plus stops - to take photos, look at seals, drink etc. Zennor is a pretty little town with some houses, a church and a pub doing a roaring trade for the visitors, mostly who came by car, and a cafe. After a nice lunch - I learnt what homity pie is - I caught the bus back to St Ives.
In the evening I went to a restaurant near here that has the reputation of being the best beachside cafe in St Ives. Mostly restaurants are booked out, but I so far I have turned up at 5. 45 and got the last table each time. Wednesday was no exception. I had a lovely meal overlooking the harbour and a sailing race of 4 smallish boats. I had brill, another different fish. I was told after wards that Judi Dench dines there with her daughter and family every so often. Her daughter has a house at Zennor.
St Ives Tuesday
Last Tuesday, after a slow start , I pottered rather aimlessly around the town. Very unusual for me. I bought a newspaper and sat on several different benches with different viewpoints of the boats and families playing in the sand. Before I knew it is was lunchtime. I had a delicious prawn salad from a takeaway place with tables next to one of the beaches. Then I tried another of the 'made in cornwall' icecreams because I did not want to give up my table. The afternoon was much the same as the morning.
St Ives is known for its beaches, scenic views , good light - lots of artists come and have come here- little windy roads, alleyways. It used to be a fishing, mainly pilchards, and mining - tin and copper - town. Now tourism is the main industry.
St Ives is known for its beaches, scenic views , good light - lots of artists come and have come here- little windy roads, alleyways. It used to be a fishing, mainly pilchards, and mining - tin and copper - town. Now tourism is the main industry.
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
Last Sunday in Bristol. A forgotten post.
Today we caught a bus from Bath to Bristol Airport. We chatted to a Bath resident on his way to Portugal.
When we arrived at Bristol airport, we range the proprietor of a b and b we had booked and she came and collectd our bags. We took the bus into Bristol and walked from the bus station through unremarkable business streets to an area called the floating harbour. This area was full of people . We had a brief but fun ferry ride along the river a short way to the SS Great Britain. We spent some time in the museum and on the boat. This ship was the largest iron hulled steam and sail vessel of its time, built in 1847 ??. It was designed and built by the famous engineer Brunel.
It made many trips bringing immigrants to Australia over a period of 30 years. Over its very long life it was modified several times. At one time it's engine was taken out to make way for cargo.
When we arrived at Bristol airport, we range the proprietor of a b and b we had booked and she came and collectd our bags. We took the bus into Bristol and walked from the bus station through unremarkable business streets to an area called the floating harbour. This area was full of people . We had a brief but fun ferry ride along the river a short way to the SS Great Britain. We spent some time in the museum and on the boat. This ship was the largest iron hulled steam and sail vessel of its time, built in 1847 ??. It was designed and built by the famous engineer Brunel.
It made many trips bringing immigrants to Australia over a period of 30 years. Over its very long life it was modified several times. At one time it's engine was taken out to make way for cargo.
Monday, September 1, 2014
St Ives
I have arrived in st Ives and Noel is in Abu Dhabi. My room is lovely but I have very limited wireless so maybe no blog for a while.
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