I arrived back in Canberra on the bus from Sydney at 11.30 on Friday night. There were several delays and frustrations on the way and I was less calm and able to sit patiently than I was hoping to be. I think, mentally, I started the long journey home when I left San Remo, not Milan.
I stepped foot outside the airplane at Sydney at 8.10 pm ( 2.75 hours late) and I am sure I now have the record for the fastest time through immigration and customs. I was seated at the front end of the business class passengers, so I only had a few first class passengers to weave my way through and then I ran. There was noone else around, no other large jet had just discharged its hordes, there had been a delay of about 15 min waiting at the gate for a quarantine doctor to check a sick passenger and therefore my bag was already on the carousel when I got straight through immigration, no queues, then straight through customs, no queues, then I ran again to the bus, due to leave at 8.15, and got there as the last 2 passengers were boarding at 8.22
Saturday, September 12, 2015
Wednesday, September 9, 2015
Milan overnight
If you are one of those people who read the previous post about my mission summary, I have added to it.
I have just arrived in a hotel near Milano secondary airport Linate. I caught th train from San remo to Milan, bus from central railway to Lina te, checked what time I should be ther for a 6.30 departure, then walked to the hotel. Off now for a walk around a man made nearby lake.
I have just arrived in a hotel near Milano secondary airport Linate. I caught th train from San remo to Milan, bus from central railway to Lina te, checked what time I should be ther for a 6.30 departure, then walked to the hotel. Off now for a walk around a man made nearby lake.
Tuesday, September 8, 2015
Last day in San Remo
I pottered, started my new knitting project, though it was 2 steps forward, 1 step back mostly, attempted some souvenir shopping but gave up . It was too hard and too crowded and too hot. Tomorrow I go to Milan by train.
Mission summary
I looked for 29 churches . Of these, at the marked place on the map, I found nothing like a church on 3 occasions.
Of the remaining 13 flops :
3 I found the building but it was not being used as a church
3 I found the church and it was closed up, not in use
1 was closed for renovations
6 were closed when I was there, but are in use
Of the 13 churches that were open and in which I lit a candle or candles :
2 were a success grade 1 plus. I chose the candle, what colour, lit it, and chose where to place it on the stand.
3 were a success grade 1 , as above but all the candles were the same colour
5 were a success grade 2. I was not able to light a real candle, but I had some choice over where I put the pretend candle, or which of the pretend candles I could turn on.
3 were only a success grade 3. I put my money in the slot and I had no choice over which pretend candle lit up.
The above sounds very business -like, without feeling. I was pleased I put the effort into this mission. I have no idea if it has in any way helped A (as in A good friend) or her family. From my experience of almost 10 years ago now, I can remember feeling a glimmer of warmth in my heart when I found out similar things people were doing for John, me and our children. Glimmers eventually add up.
Of the remaining 13 flops :
3 I found the building but it was not being used as a church
3 I found the church and it was closed up, not in use
1 was closed for renovations
6 were closed when I was there, but are in use
Of the 13 churches that were open and in which I lit a candle or candles :
2 were a success grade 1 plus. I chose the candle, what colour, lit it, and chose where to place it on the stand.
3 were a success grade 1 , as above but all the candles were the same colour
5 were a success grade 2. I was not able to light a real candle, but I had some choice over where I put the pretend candle, or which of the pretend candles I could turn on.
3 were only a success grade 3. I put my money in the slot and I had no choice over which pretend candle lit up.
The above sounds very business -like, without feeling. I was pleased I put the effort into this mission. I have no idea if it has in any way helped A (as in A good friend) or her family. From my experience of almost 10 years ago now, I can remember feeling a glimmer of warmth in my heart when I found out similar things people were doing for John, me and our children. Glimmers eventually add up.
Monday, September 7, 2015
Bordighera
Today I went to Bordeghera, 30 minutes by bus West along the coast towards France. It is a smaller town than San Remo, but apparently it's palm trees are better. The Vatican sources it's palms for Palm Sunday from Bordighera. Monet lived here for a while and painted many scenes.
It is like many towns along the coast -it has an old town with ancient walls and narrow twisting lanes and the new part along the current coastline. I went first to a church with, I thought, a very confused name, Chiesa dell' Immacolata Concezione dei Padri Francescani. A service was about to start so I light a candle, sat for a bit, and left. A success grade 2. I chose which candle to swith on, but no flame.
Next I walked along the coast , past all the 'beaches' , both private and public, to a little chapel. It features in some of Monet's paintings. The old part was very plain and simple. Mass is said once a day, but the only thing hanging above the altar is a statue of an old man in a cloak. Moses or God or Old Father Time? There was a new bit added on with 2 candle lighting stations. Another success grade 1 plus. I could choose which color candle, light it with a real flame, and choose where on the stand to put it.
I walked up to the old town through a pleasant park with good views, through a very old gate, through narrow lanes to another church, similar to many others, lots of sparkle and twiddly bits and statues and dark, gloomy paintings. Success grade 2, I could choose a pretend candle and which place to slot it into, but no flame.
According to my map, there was another church further up the hill. Not so. I could not find it, stopped and asked 2 very old ladies and was told there used to be a church but it was incorporated into the nursing home.
Back down the hill and lunch at one of the many places along the waterfront. I sat looking out over the tops of the beach umbrellas to the sea and along the coast to the west. It was easy to see France. It was a good meal.
It is like many towns along the coast -it has an old town with ancient walls and narrow twisting lanes and the new part along the current coastline. I went first to a church with, I thought, a very confused name, Chiesa dell' Immacolata Concezione dei Padri Francescani. A service was about to start so I light a candle, sat for a bit, and left. A success grade 2. I chose which candle to swith on, but no flame.
Next I walked along the coast , past all the 'beaches' , both private and public, to a little chapel. It features in some of Monet's paintings. The old part was very plain and simple. Mass is said once a day, but the only thing hanging above the altar is a statue of an old man in a cloak. Moses or God or Old Father Time? There was a new bit added on with 2 candle lighting stations. Another success grade 1 plus. I could choose which color candle, light it with a real flame, and choose where on the stand to put it.
I walked up to the old town through a pleasant park with good views, through a very old gate, through narrow lanes to another church, similar to many others, lots of sparkle and twiddly bits and statues and dark, gloomy paintings. Success grade 2, I could choose a pretend candle and which place to slot it into, but no flame.
According to my map, there was another church further up the hill. Not so. I could not find it, stopped and asked 2 very old ladies and was told there used to be a church but it was incorporated into the nursing home.
Back down the hill and lunch at one of the many places along the waterfront. I sat looking out over the tops of the beach umbrellas to the sea and along the coast to the west. It was easy to see France. It was a good meal.
Sunday, September 6, 2015
A day of rest in San remo
I did no sightseeing and no candle-chasing today.
I spent a lot of time working out how I will change the pattern I have bought for the shetland wool I bought, experimenting with the wool and some other wool I have with me to make beanies for Wendy's hospital trolley. I learnt a new patience game -two pack Algerian patience. I read my book, a detective story set in Florence. I went out for my morning coffee. I went out for lunch, but not to the usual, I didnot feel like making the effort to talk to people. I went out for a gelato, stroll along the waterfront and to buy something for dinner. Along the waterfront I wandered past the fishing boats and watched a huge millionaires boat being reversed into the tiniest space between 2 other slightly less huge boats. At one point I could see a lookout and 2 crew one side and 3 crew the other all holding large padding bollardy things over the side of the boat as the skipper sort of pushed his way in. I could see the boat on one side moving a bit. I was tempted to wait and see who came off the boat, but I had finished my gelato and there was no one else around, so I thought not. On my way home I saw in the distance the lady who runs my usual lunch restaurant. I was thinking up an excuse if she asked me where was I at lunchtime. Luckily she only recognised me as she reached me and only had time to say good evening. She was dressed for church or a smart dinner out, I was in my skirt, the same skirt I have worn every day for the past 18 days, excluding 3 travelling days. Luckily it easily dries overnight.
I spent a lot of time working out how I will change the pattern I have bought for the shetland wool I bought, experimenting with the wool and some other wool I have with me to make beanies for Wendy's hospital trolley. I learnt a new patience game -two pack Algerian patience. I read my book, a detective story set in Florence. I went out for my morning coffee. I went out for lunch, but not to the usual, I didnot feel like making the effort to talk to people. I went out for a gelato, stroll along the waterfront and to buy something for dinner. Along the waterfront I wandered past the fishing boats and watched a huge millionaires boat being reversed into the tiniest space between 2 other slightly less huge boats. At one point I could see a lookout and 2 crew one side and 3 crew the other all holding large padding bollardy things over the side of the boat as the skipper sort of pushed his way in. I could see the boat on one side moving a bit. I was tempted to wait and see who came off the boat, but I had finished my gelato and there was no one else around, so I thought not. On my way home I saw in the distance the lady who runs my usual lunch restaurant. I was thinking up an excuse if she asked me where was I at lunchtime. Luckily she only recognised me as she reached me and only had time to say good evening. She was dressed for church or a smart dinner out, I was in my skirt, the same skirt I have worn every day for the past 18 days, excluding 3 travelling days. Luckily it easily dries overnight.
Saturday, September 5, 2015
San Remo Saturday
This morning I had a slow start then went to the markets- clothes , shoes, bags, etc. I want a new bag but there were none like I want. There were also very many people. It was a friendly crowd, but still a crowd. So I took the easy option and gave up. All those beautiful cheap cashmere jumpers will have to wait till next time.
I arrived at my usual main meal place at 12.10 to find it full, mostly French who come for the markets. I was put at the same table as an Italian gentleman who eats there regularly, turns out every day. HE is somehow related to the owners. Conversation was a bit stilted, but we both tried. He left and anot her single lady was put with me. We got on well and managed much better. She was better able to work out what I was trying to say. She lives in Milan but has a house here that she spends August and February in. She also has a weekender at Sirmione on the shores of Lake Garda. She is also very disappointed that she can no longer light a candle with a flame in most churches. When I left at 2.40, the restaurant was still packed.
Next I walked to the second Russian church, but it was closed, 20 minutes after the sign on the door said it would be open. So, a flop. I am not going back there on the off chance it may be open. I walked on, further East where the map said there was another church which looked, from its website, like it was alive. On the way I passed a smaller church which was some sort of offshoot of the church I was heading for, but it was closed, but it was obviously still used for masses. Another flop. The church I was heading for was certainly well used. Sometime in the late last centuy another big bit was added to it to almost double the size. There are some nice wooden bits and modern stained glass windows. It was a mission success grade 2. I got to flick a switch to turn on the candle of my choice.
I walked back along the waterfront. Lots of toys, tiny little inflatable things up to great big huge millions of $ boats. I stopped for an iced coffee in a pleasant spot in the shade, then continued.
I bought a few things to supplement my remaining odds and ends for dinner - 2 zucchini flowers stuffed with potatoes and mortadella , i think and a piece of the local foccacia like base with tomato, olives, sardines etc on the top, called sardenaria. Later ... I could not taste the sardines.
I arrived at my usual main meal place at 12.10 to find it full, mostly French who come for the markets. I was put at the same table as an Italian gentleman who eats there regularly, turns out every day. HE is somehow related to the owners. Conversation was a bit stilted, but we both tried. He left and anot her single lady was put with me. We got on well and managed much better. She was better able to work out what I was trying to say. She lives in Milan but has a house here that she spends August and February in. She also has a weekender at Sirmione on the shores of Lake Garda. She is also very disappointed that she can no longer light a candle with a flame in most churches. When I left at 2.40, the restaurant was still packed.
Next I walked to the second Russian church, but it was closed, 20 minutes after the sign on the door said it would be open. So, a flop. I am not going back there on the off chance it may be open. I walked on, further East where the map said there was another church which looked, from its website, like it was alive. On the way I passed a smaller church which was some sort of offshoot of the church I was heading for, but it was closed, but it was obviously still used for masses. Another flop. The church I was heading for was certainly well used. Sometime in the late last centuy another big bit was added to it to almost double the size. There are some nice wooden bits and modern stained glass windows. It was a mission success grade 2. I got to flick a switch to turn on the candle of my choice.
I walked back along the waterfront. Lots of toys, tiny little inflatable things up to great big huge millions of $ boats. I stopped for an iced coffee in a pleasant spot in the shade, then continued.
I bought a few things to supplement my remaining odds and ends for dinner - 2 zucchini flowers stuffed with potatoes and mortadella , i think and a piece of the local foccacia like base with tomato, olives, sardines etc on the top, called sardenaria. Later ... I could not taste the sardines.
Friday, September 4, 2015
San Remo and Albenga
This morning I went by train to Albenga, 1 hour along th coast towards Genova.
Albenga has a small old town in the centre still with lots of the medieval walls surviving and small narrow lanes. In the centre there is a Romanesque cathedral, mostly built in the 11th century and added to in the early 14th, another church , a bishops palace right next to the cathedral and a baptistry.
I went first to the baptistry and museum in the bishops house. A lady took a few of us around. She spoke slowly in Italian and I got most of what she said. The baptistry was built end of the 5th , early 6th century and is still used today. There was a lovely bit of mosaic in part of the ceiling, reminiscent of those I saw in 2007 in Ravenna. It had 10 sides to the outside wall and the inside wall, had 8 sides.
The museum was ok, but I am a bit over museums. Several guide books said it had a Caravaggio . I was surprised, I though I had looked up where they all were in italy. Turns out it was from the Caravaggio school, ìe like his work and probably done by a pupil.
I then went to the cathedral which was lovely and plain with large stone columns, an interesting ceiling and the remains of some very old looking frescoes. There was one candle lighting stand and it was a grade 3. No choice. All you did was put a coin in the slot. However, the other church in the old piazza had about 6 candle lighting stands. They were a grade 1 plus. Not only could I light my own tea-light sized candle, I could choose which of 4 colours. I am a little undecided as to whether the whole effect looked a bit gaudy, howe er, I made the best of the situation, chose a red one for H, then a blue, yellow and green one for A and their children. Again I lit the blue, yellow and green one from the red candle.
I had no map of Albenga other than the maps.me app. This is the app that took me to the non existent mosque 3 days ago. Today I spent a while wandering round the maze of laneways but only found 1 out of 3 'Churches' marked on the map. It was no longer a church, but a building that was roughly the right size. That was 1 flop not 3.
I caught a train back to san remo and stopped to look at another Orthodox church which was not open (lunchtkme) that goes jn the pending pile, and then a Lutheran church that had a large sign that said it had a service on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month. A flop, besides they probably donot have candles to light.
I had had a very non description almost unpleasant sandwich on the railway station at albenga so figured I should have a gelato on my way back to my apartment.
Albenga has a small old town in the centre still with lots of the medieval walls surviving and small narrow lanes. In the centre there is a Romanesque cathedral, mostly built in the 11th century and added to in the early 14th, another church , a bishops palace right next to the cathedral and a baptistry.
I went first to the baptistry and museum in the bishops house. A lady took a few of us around. She spoke slowly in Italian and I got most of what she said. The baptistry was built end of the 5th , early 6th century and is still used today. There was a lovely bit of mosaic in part of the ceiling, reminiscent of those I saw in 2007 in Ravenna. It had 10 sides to the outside wall and the inside wall, had 8 sides.
The museum was ok, but I am a bit over museums. Several guide books said it had a Caravaggio . I was surprised, I though I had looked up where they all were in italy. Turns out it was from the Caravaggio school, ìe like his work and probably done by a pupil.
I then went to the cathedral which was lovely and plain with large stone columns, an interesting ceiling and the remains of some very old looking frescoes. There was one candle lighting stand and it was a grade 3. No choice. All you did was put a coin in the slot. However, the other church in the old piazza had about 6 candle lighting stands. They were a grade 1 plus. Not only could I light my own tea-light sized candle, I could choose which of 4 colours. I am a little undecided as to whether the whole effect looked a bit gaudy, howe er, I made the best of the situation, chose a red one for H, then a blue, yellow and green one for A and their children. Again I lit the blue, yellow and green one from the red candle.
I had no map of Albenga other than the maps.me app. This is the app that took me to the non existent mosque 3 days ago. Today I spent a while wandering round the maze of laneways but only found 1 out of 3 'Churches' marked on the map. It was no longer a church, but a building that was roughly the right size. That was 1 flop not 3.
I caught a train back to san remo and stopped to look at another Orthodox church which was not open (lunchtkme) that goes jn the pending pile, and then a Lutheran church that had a large sign that said it had a service on the 2nd and 4th Sunday of the month. A flop, besides they probably donot have candles to light.
I had had a very non description almost unpleasant sandwich on the railway station at albenga so figured I should have a gelato on my way back to my apartment.
Thursday, September 3, 2015
San remo mission day 3
This morning I set off in the direction of the Russian Church. When I was there the day before yesterday, it was quite late in the day and the church was half in shadow. I wanted a better photo. Trouble is this morning, I was looking into the sun. Brilliant!
I went to the church of all the Saints which was built in 1884 by the 'English Anglican' and then became Catholic in 1991. It reminded me of an English church with lots of carved wood and fewer than normal statues and paintings of Mary. There were quite a few local women wandering about. There were 2 places where you could light a candle. I didnot choose the nice plain statue of Jesus that had been adorned with a halo of lights,. Along one wall of the church there were the 15 stations of the cross. Quite plain brass ( or something). Under the 14th one was a candle lighting place. At the previous 4 churches that I have been been able to get into, there is a donation box as part of or built into the candle lighting stand. In this mornings church it said 50 cents a candle. I had been in the habit of putting in what ever coin came out of my purse first. I didnot like to be told. As it happened, I pulled out a €2 coin. Fine, I would light 4 candles. This brought to mind a conversation I had with H last November. I asked him why, if we believe that when we die we are with God and that that is the ultimate, why do , on All Saints Day, we pray to God and ask him to look after all the Saints, as in our dearly beloved relatives or whoever? I remember H, in his calm measured manner, take a moment to formulate a response that made sense to me at the time, but that I have now forgotten. I was bothered by that. After a few moments I read the inscription on the 14th station. It said 'Do not be afraid, I am the resurrection'. Ok. I lit one candle from the existing one there, thinking of H, and then lit 3 candles from that first one, thinking of A and their 2 children.
Next was a small chapel next door. I forgot to write it's name down. It was the church of the Black something. I could not get in, it was locked but it was still used for services and for groups. I took a picture through the glass door. A flop, but not as bad a flop as others.
There is a church next to the huge casino that, for some, is the main attraction of San remo. I was amused by the irony. It is the church of the Capuchin, an offshoot of the Fransiscans started by a guy who thought that the Franciscan church had grown away from the founding philosophy and become too worldly. It was like most of the other churches, not particularly to my taste, but had quite a few pleasant almost art deco ish stained glass windows. There were 14 candle lighting stands. I spent ages choosing one and finally decided on a very plain statue of Jesus. I was disappointed to find that it was another electric job, but horrified to find I had no choice. I put my money , only 20 cents, in a box and a candle lit up. So now there are 3 grades of a mission success. Mission Success grade 1 is when I physically get to light a real flame and choose where I put it. Mission success 2 is some sort of electric arrangement that I still have a choice with and mission success 3 is the lowest. No choice and no real flame.
Church 4 today was, unfortunately another success grade 3. An ordinary church in a deserted piazza, but still used and well cared for. There were 10 candle lighting stands to choose from . I chose a stand underneath a fairly modern painting of John Paul II, though it was more a process of eliminating the other stands. I sat for a while and watched the candle stands and what happened when people put their money in. I am fairly sure there is a pattern of which candles come on in which order. So, in theory, if you wanted a particular candle to come on, and didnot mind which others came on, and had a pocket full of coins, you could manage to get your choice. .
So now the mission total is: Success grade 1 : 3, success grade 2 : 2, success grade 3 : 2, flops: 6 and 1 pending. The pending is near me. A funeral was going on one day, a service the next and this morning it was closed.
On my way to the markets today for some essentials -more great big delicious peaches nd more figs, I passed the lady from my lunch restaurant. ' Good morning senora, will we see you today? Hope so'. She said quickly in Italian. Why not , I thought and replied graciously that the food was delicious and yes please. Once again an excellent meal with lots of different characters to watch and listen to and join in with occasionally. I have progressed from Buongiorno status to ciao status.
I went to the church of all the Saints which was built in 1884 by the 'English Anglican' and then became Catholic in 1991. It reminded me of an English church with lots of carved wood and fewer than normal statues and paintings of Mary. There were quite a few local women wandering about. There were 2 places where you could light a candle. I didnot choose the nice plain statue of Jesus that had been adorned with a halo of lights,. Along one wall of the church there were the 15 stations of the cross. Quite plain brass ( or something). Under the 14th one was a candle lighting place. At the previous 4 churches that I have been been able to get into, there is a donation box as part of or built into the candle lighting stand. In this mornings church it said 50 cents a candle. I had been in the habit of putting in what ever coin came out of my purse first. I didnot like to be told. As it happened, I pulled out a €2 coin. Fine, I would light 4 candles. This brought to mind a conversation I had with H last November. I asked him why, if we believe that when we die we are with God and that that is the ultimate, why do , on All Saints Day, we pray to God and ask him to look after all the Saints, as in our dearly beloved relatives or whoever? I remember H, in his calm measured manner, take a moment to formulate a response that made sense to me at the time, but that I have now forgotten. I was bothered by that. After a few moments I read the inscription on the 14th station. It said 'Do not be afraid, I am the resurrection'. Ok. I lit one candle from the existing one there, thinking of H, and then lit 3 candles from that first one, thinking of A and their 2 children.
Next was a small chapel next door. I forgot to write it's name down. It was the church of the Black something. I could not get in, it was locked but it was still used for services and for groups. I took a picture through the glass door. A flop, but not as bad a flop as others.
There is a church next to the huge casino that, for some, is the main attraction of San remo. I was amused by the irony. It is the church of the Capuchin, an offshoot of the Fransiscans started by a guy who thought that the Franciscan church had grown away from the founding philosophy and become too worldly. It was like most of the other churches, not particularly to my taste, but had quite a few pleasant almost art deco ish stained glass windows. There were 14 candle lighting stands. I spent ages choosing one and finally decided on a very plain statue of Jesus. I was disappointed to find that it was another electric job, but horrified to find I had no choice. I put my money , only 20 cents, in a box and a candle lit up. So now there are 3 grades of a mission success. Mission Success grade 1 is when I physically get to light a real flame and choose where I put it. Mission success 2 is some sort of electric arrangement that I still have a choice with and mission success 3 is the lowest. No choice and no real flame.
Church 4 today was, unfortunately another success grade 3. An ordinary church in a deserted piazza, but still used and well cared for. There were 10 candle lighting stands to choose from . I chose a stand underneath a fairly modern painting of John Paul II, though it was more a process of eliminating the other stands. I sat for a while and watched the candle stands and what happened when people put their money in. I am fairly sure there is a pattern of which candles come on in which order. So, in theory, if you wanted a particular candle to come on, and didnot mind which others came on, and had a pocket full of coins, you could manage to get your choice. .
So now the mission total is: Success grade 1 : 3, success grade 2 : 2, success grade 3 : 2, flops: 6 and 1 pending. The pending is near me. A funeral was going on one day, a service the next and this morning it was closed.
On my way to the markets today for some essentials -more great big delicious peaches nd more figs, I passed the lady from my lunch restaurant. ' Good morning senora, will we see you today? Hope so'. She said quickly in Italian. Why not , I thought and replied graciously that the food was delicious and yes please. Once again an excellent meal with lots of different characters to watch and listen to and join in with occasionally. I have progressed from Buongiorno status to ciao status.
Russian church, with a spire hidden by the sunlight in the top right.
Wednesday, September 2, 2015
Extras from yesterday, continuing Mission
A few things from yesterday:
I was so full at lunch time that I passed on my desert, which was included. Probably a first for me.
This apartment is great except for th tiniest shower I have ever been in, and I've been in some small ones. But, yesterday I discovered the trick to bending over - open the door, stick my head out bend over and reach behind me for the dropped soap, stomped on clothes or whatever.
The streets here go diagonally across the hill, in either direction, which I find confusing. I expect roads, tracks etc to follow the contours I think. Venice was a cinch compared to here, but I was 6 years younger.
Over night I have realised that my method of describing my success or otherwise at visiting churches is flawed. I was using 'strike' as in 3 strikes you are out, a bad thing. But a strike in military , and other , terms is a good thing. My friend, who is not here looking over my shoulder anymore, suggested ''setback'. But I think I prefer 'flop', a bit vaguer and less specific. I think the effort in getting to the various churches is the main thing. A flop is not necessarily a failure.
When I walked into the cafe for my coffee , I walked into a conversation about Africa which I could not follow. I said Buongiorno to the few locals and bar lady and was asked my opinion. I said in my halting Italian that they were talking too quickly for me to understand. They seemed pleased at that . I said i was from australia etc etc Later in the day I passed one of the ladies. She grabbed my arm and apologised most profusely, but I could not gather what for. Something about thinking I was german and she does not like Germans. But what that has to do with Africa?
I can see from the corner of my balcony, just, a large church which is lit up on some nights at the top of the hill that san remo snakes and twists and turns around .. Today's first destination. Unfortunately, before I could go up I had to go down , along, and then up, up and more up. There were some great views , which obviously i had to stop and photograph. Lots of times. The paved approach to this church was interesting . I liked the inside. Not too much glitter, quite a lot of different coloured marble. It had a good feel. When I arrived there was a lady who was doing some sort of act, shuffling along on her knees, praying quietly, then shuffling a bit further, stop, pray etc. . I sat quietly for a while and wondered at the etiquette of me quietly taking photos while she was busy, but I was saved by her mobile ringing, she went outside and I got up and took photos. I lit a real tea light sized candle with a match and chose a position on metal tree to place it on.
This church was at the top of what is called the old part of town. The lanes are even narrower, think left shoulder on one wall and touch the other wall and duck when you go through archways. Sometimes quite atmospheric, delicate window boxes jn tiny spaces, nice wooden doors, but sometimes a bit dark and spooky , with quite steep, uneven, moss covered steps. I was searching for 3 churches in this convoluted maze. The first was ok, typical, shiny and glittery with lots of what I call Roman Catholic stuff. What put me off was the 'candles'. There was a stand with 2 rows of artificial candles the size of big pencils. In front of them was a row of switches. I spent a while choosing which 'candle'to switch on. Mission success 4, sort of. I might have to separate the 'success' category into 'light a real candle' and a lesser category of artificial success.
The 3rd church of the day was a flop. All closed up and not used, according to the group of 4 old men sitting nearby.
The 4th church was another flop. After much circling I found the building that used to be it. It was the right size, with large doors, but had no cross. I asked a few old ladies. Many years closed, was the best i could decipher.
Tally after day 2 : success 4, Flop 5. I am excluding the mosque I could not find, and there is one pending form day 1
I got back here just in time to receive a call from Relay friend to say that , very sadly, H had died. My mission started for H and his family, so I will definitely continue.
I went down to the same restaurant as yesterday for lunch. I was a bit apprehensive, I did leave rather a lot of uneaten rabbit yesterday, but needlessly. I was greeted as a long lost friend, sat at the same table near a few other of yesterday's guests. I ate a delicious large bowl of spaghetti with clams, mussels, baby calamari, and other things, water, wine, tiramisu , coffee for E 15. Yesterday he gave me too much change, I told him and he took some back, today he gave me too much I think , but who knows. One well dressed elderly lady who was there yesterday was given, after she finished her meal a big bowl of beans to top and tail.
I came back here, sat quietly knitting a beanie for Wendy's trolley in suva thinking of how lucky I am that John was able to see one of his grandchildren. Neither Rs husband, nor H had that opportunity. I was also thinking of how pleased I am that I went to the Russian church yesterday, which H would have been interested in, while he was still alive, as scientifically ridiculous as that sounds.
This evening I thought it was time to go for a walk along the water, well road above the water where you access all the European style beach places - you pay
to rent a deck chair, sit squashed in next to the person beside you , go to the shop for a drink or food, change in a funny little cabin , not nearly as cute as the ones in Australia. No space between one 'beach' and the next. If you are lucky the 'beach' you have chosen may have a metre of dark grey stuff that is called sand. Mile after mile of these. I would have liked a quiet little bar but instead went a bit higher up and found a bench under a tree with a view out over the water. Luckily, you could not see the 'beaches' below. I had water.
I was so full at lunch time that I passed on my desert, which was included. Probably a first for me.
This apartment is great except for th tiniest shower I have ever been in, and I've been in some small ones. But, yesterday I discovered the trick to bending over - open the door, stick my head out bend over and reach behind me for the dropped soap, stomped on clothes or whatever.
The streets here go diagonally across the hill, in either direction, which I find confusing. I expect roads, tracks etc to follow the contours I think. Venice was a cinch compared to here, but I was 6 years younger.
Over night I have realised that my method of describing my success or otherwise at visiting churches is flawed. I was using 'strike' as in 3 strikes you are out, a bad thing. But a strike in military , and other , terms is a good thing. My friend, who is not here looking over my shoulder anymore, suggested ''setback'. But I think I prefer 'flop', a bit vaguer and less specific. I think the effort in getting to the various churches is the main thing. A flop is not necessarily a failure.
When I walked into the cafe for my coffee , I walked into a conversation about Africa which I could not follow. I said Buongiorno to the few locals and bar lady and was asked my opinion. I said in my halting Italian that they were talking too quickly for me to understand. They seemed pleased at that . I said i was from australia etc etc Later in the day I passed one of the ladies. She grabbed my arm and apologised most profusely, but I could not gather what for. Something about thinking I was german and she does not like Germans. But what that has to do with Africa?
I can see from the corner of my balcony, just, a large church which is lit up on some nights at the top of the hill that san remo snakes and twists and turns around .. Today's first destination. Unfortunately, before I could go up I had to go down , along, and then up, up and more up. There were some great views , which obviously i had to stop and photograph. Lots of times. The paved approach to this church was interesting . I liked the inside. Not too much glitter, quite a lot of different coloured marble. It had a good feel. When I arrived there was a lady who was doing some sort of act, shuffling along on her knees, praying quietly, then shuffling a bit further, stop, pray etc. . I sat quietly for a while and wondered at the etiquette of me quietly taking photos while she was busy, but I was saved by her mobile ringing, she went outside and I got up and took photos. I lit a real tea light sized candle with a match and chose a position on metal tree to place it on.
This church was at the top of what is called the old part of town. The lanes are even narrower, think left shoulder on one wall and touch the other wall and duck when you go through archways. Sometimes quite atmospheric, delicate window boxes jn tiny spaces, nice wooden doors, but sometimes a bit dark and spooky , with quite steep, uneven, moss covered steps. I was searching for 3 churches in this convoluted maze. The first was ok, typical, shiny and glittery with lots of what I call Roman Catholic stuff. What put me off was the 'candles'. There was a stand with 2 rows of artificial candles the size of big pencils. In front of them was a row of switches. I spent a while choosing which 'candle'to switch on. Mission success 4, sort of. I might have to separate the 'success' category into 'light a real candle' and a lesser category of artificial success.
The 3rd church of the day was a flop. All closed up and not used, according to the group of 4 old men sitting nearby.
The 4th church was another flop. After much circling I found the building that used to be it. It was the right size, with large doors, but had no cross. I asked a few old ladies. Many years closed, was the best i could decipher.
Tally after day 2 : success 4, Flop 5. I am excluding the mosque I could not find, and there is one pending form day 1
I got back here just in time to receive a call from Relay friend to say that , very sadly, H had died. My mission started for H and his family, so I will definitely continue.
I went down to the same restaurant as yesterday for lunch. I was a bit apprehensive, I did leave rather a lot of uneaten rabbit yesterday, but needlessly. I was greeted as a long lost friend, sat at the same table near a few other of yesterday's guests. I ate a delicious large bowl of spaghetti with clams, mussels, baby calamari, and other things, water, wine, tiramisu , coffee for E 15. Yesterday he gave me too much change, I told him and he took some back, today he gave me too much I think , but who knows. One well dressed elderly lady who was there yesterday was given, after she finished her meal a big bowl of beans to top and tail.
I came back here, sat quietly knitting a beanie for Wendy's trolley in suva thinking of how lucky I am that John was able to see one of his grandchildren. Neither Rs husband, nor H had that opportunity. I was also thinking of how pleased I am that I went to the Russian church yesterday, which H would have been interested in, while he was still alive, as scientifically ridiculous as that sounds.
This evening I thought it was time to go for a walk along the water, well road above the water where you access all the European style beach places - you pay
to rent a deck chair, sit squashed in next to the person beside you , go to the shop for a drink or food, change in a funny little cabin , not nearly as cute as the ones in Australia. No space between one 'beach' and the next. If you are lucky the 'beach' you have chosen may have a metre of dark grey stuff that is called sand. Mile after mile of these. I would have liked a quiet little bar but instead went a bit higher up and found a bench under a tree with a view out over the water. Luckily, you could not see the 'beaches' below. I had water.
Tuesday, September 1, 2015
New mission in San Remo and surrounds
Yesterday , on the train on the way here, I was thinking about what I wanted to do while i am jn san remo and how to arrange my time to make sure i saw what i wanted, knowing that having a rest is the priority.
Yesterday afternoon when I arrived here, I found out that the husband of a good friend ( both who shall be nameless and unidentifiable at this stage so I shall call my friend A, as in A Friend, and her husband, H as in Her Husband) was in a very serious condition in hospital. I spent a lot of the evening trying to think of what I could do and I suddenly thought that I could visit and take photos of and say a prayer in as many of the many, many churches that are in this area as possible. A plan for my time here.
This blog and subsequent ones may become long and boring, but A and or H may like to read it later.
This morning I enjoyed watching the interchange of the locals while I was having my morning coffee. I then went to the large market that operates each morning here. The food is in a large barn like structure and round the barn on all sides are about 4 rows of tents selling bags, shoes, undies, kitchen gadgets, scarfs, jumpers, etc etc. I entered the outer area , wandered off and realised I had not taken note of the shops near where I had come in, all the tall apartment blocks around looked the same. Oops. I worked it out, and then went inside. Rows and rows of lovely local fruit and veg jn the middle, and on the outside wall cheese, meat, bread, etc etc. I wandered around watching the system, . Years ago jn italy it was a big no no to pick up the fruit. Here , now, you get a round bowl, fill it up with what you want, all muddled up, then pass the bowl to the person behind the counter who weighs it and rattles off very quickly the numbers of how much you owe them. Lots of people only buy a few of things, so I didnot feel bad with my 2 peaches, 2 nectarines, few tomatoes, 4 figs, 3 pears ( the lady who sold me the piquant provolone told me I should eat it with pear)
I carried my purchases home and spent the rest of the morning reading about where and what I wanted to go and see I. E.which little villages had interesting churches. I also installed viber so I could talk to another friend, which I did. She is , amongst other things, the relayer of information about A and H, so I shall refer to her as R. It was good to talk to her because I feel very far away.
The proprietor of this apartment recommended a restaurant to me near here, down a laneway. I went there for lunch. After my experience there, I see no reason to eat anywhere else in San Remo. There were 2 rooms, the one I was in had 5 tables of 4 and 5 tables of 2. They had a special menu which I chose from. First off it said 4 types of pasta, then I chose rabbit because, apart from Burton hall when I was at uni, I donot recall ever eating rabbit. Then it must have been cheap . We were told it was chicken but some biology students put together the bones. Anyway, I got there at 12.30 and just got a table. People at many of the other tables knew each other and the proprietor, there was a 2 year old who every one was enjoying, it was someones birthday. I watched what was going on, trying to work out the connections, people seemed to wander into the kitchen to talk to the staff, the food was excellent, but far too much for me. When the rabbit came I was not sure what to do. Luckily about that time I got involved in a conversation, the usual, where was I from , what was I doing in San remo, why there. One guy spoke better English than my Italian, so that was good. So that gave me a breather and then someone said 'stop talking so that the signora can eat her rabbit' . i ate about a third of the rabbit, which was very good, a speciality of this part of Liguria. Asmthey were leaving, veryone said goodbye to every one else, including me, because I was near the door. Fascinating.
I thought I would go for a little walk/climb straight after lunch. I went up some stairs to where there was a church marked on the map. I could not get into it and it was behind a big fence. Ah well. Mission strike 1. On the way back to my apartment there is a mosque marked. I spent a long time looking for it, no luck. Mission strike 2. At least most of that time I was thinking about A, H and their family. I suppose that counts for something.
After an afternoon rest I set off to the piazza where I sat for my spritz yesterday. There was a church there and I had seen people going in and out. Today, however, I read the fine, print on the notice on the gate thing in front of the door. It is closed for renovations. Yesterday's people must have been tradesmen. Mission strike 3. Also marked on the map is a baptistry nearby. It is ther, all closed up. Strike 4. In the same haggled piggledy piazza there is a oratorio where services are being held while the renovation works are going, on. I went over and looked. There was an empty hearse outside and 4 large men loitering in the entrance way. Another time, I thought. Not a yes, but not a strike.
Next I went to the bus depot to get some timetables of buses to other townsmen the region. After that I went into a church I passed. There was nothing particularly remarkable about it. There were 8 side chapels, each with 'candles' to ' light'. I have not noticed before, but in this church you take a candle like object and put it in an empty space on a rack which , when contact is made, lights a globe inside the pretend candle. Not what I was hoping for. Next problem was to chose which chapel would be most appropriate, which was surprisingly difficult because none appealed to me. Mission success 1, sort of.
An interlude of history fromthe Lonely Planet guide book.
San Remo gained prominence as a resort for Europe's social elite, especially British and Russian in the mid to late 19th century when the likes of empress Maria alexandrovna ( mother of Nicholas Ii, the last tsar) held court there. Now a few old hotels survive as luxury resorts but many are past their prime.
There is a Russian Orthodox church in San remo which I walked to next. It was small, with lots of coloured tiles outside. Inside were lots of paintings, either like icons or quite detailed like some of the byzantine pain tings I have seen. It was light and felt good. I sat for a while, feeling sad that I know next to nothing about my Russian grandfather. A huge plus was that they had real candles, so I chose a suitable place for the candle I lit from someone else's candle. I like the symbolism in that action. H would have been interested in the church. Mission success 2.
Home via a different piazza, aperol spritz again, a different ( accidently and hence larger) selection of lanes to return home. A lovely juicy peach and a fig for dinner.
Yesterday afternoon when I arrived here, I found out that the husband of a good friend ( both who shall be nameless and unidentifiable at this stage so I shall call my friend A, as in A Friend, and her husband, H as in Her Husband) was in a very serious condition in hospital. I spent a lot of the evening trying to think of what I could do and I suddenly thought that I could visit and take photos of and say a prayer in as many of the many, many churches that are in this area as possible. A plan for my time here.
This blog and subsequent ones may become long and boring, but A and or H may like to read it later.
This morning I enjoyed watching the interchange of the locals while I was having my morning coffee. I then went to the large market that operates each morning here. The food is in a large barn like structure and round the barn on all sides are about 4 rows of tents selling bags, shoes, undies, kitchen gadgets, scarfs, jumpers, etc etc. I entered the outer area , wandered off and realised I had not taken note of the shops near where I had come in, all the tall apartment blocks around looked the same. Oops. I worked it out, and then went inside. Rows and rows of lovely local fruit and veg jn the middle, and on the outside wall cheese, meat, bread, etc etc. I wandered around watching the system, . Years ago jn italy it was a big no no to pick up the fruit. Here , now, you get a round bowl, fill it up with what you want, all muddled up, then pass the bowl to the person behind the counter who weighs it and rattles off very quickly the numbers of how much you owe them. Lots of people only buy a few of things, so I didnot feel bad with my 2 peaches, 2 nectarines, few tomatoes, 4 figs, 3 pears ( the lady who sold me the piquant provolone told me I should eat it with pear)
I carried my purchases home and spent the rest of the morning reading about where and what I wanted to go and see I. E.which little villages had interesting churches. I also installed viber so I could talk to another friend, which I did. She is , amongst other things, the relayer of information about A and H, so I shall refer to her as R. It was good to talk to her because I feel very far away.
The proprietor of this apartment recommended a restaurant to me near here, down a laneway. I went there for lunch. After my experience there, I see no reason to eat anywhere else in San Remo. There were 2 rooms, the one I was in had 5 tables of 4 and 5 tables of 2. They had a special menu which I chose from. First off it said 4 types of pasta, then I chose rabbit because, apart from Burton hall when I was at uni, I donot recall ever eating rabbit. Then it must have been cheap . We were told it was chicken but some biology students put together the bones. Anyway, I got there at 12.30 and just got a table. People at many of the other tables knew each other and the proprietor, there was a 2 year old who every one was enjoying, it was someones birthday. I watched what was going on, trying to work out the connections, people seemed to wander into the kitchen to talk to the staff, the food was excellent, but far too much for me. When the rabbit came I was not sure what to do. Luckily about that time I got involved in a conversation, the usual, where was I from , what was I doing in San remo, why there. One guy spoke better English than my Italian, so that was good. So that gave me a breather and then someone said 'stop talking so that the signora can eat her rabbit' . i ate about a third of the rabbit, which was very good, a speciality of this part of Liguria. Asmthey were leaving, veryone said goodbye to every one else, including me, because I was near the door. Fascinating.
I thought I would go for a little walk/climb straight after lunch. I went up some stairs to where there was a church marked on the map. I could not get into it and it was behind a big fence. Ah well. Mission strike 1. On the way back to my apartment there is a mosque marked. I spent a long time looking for it, no luck. Mission strike 2. At least most of that time I was thinking about A, H and their family. I suppose that counts for something.
After an afternoon rest I set off to the piazza where I sat for my spritz yesterday. There was a church there and I had seen people going in and out. Today, however, I read the fine, print on the notice on the gate thing in front of the door. It is closed for renovations. Yesterday's people must have been tradesmen. Mission strike 3. Also marked on the map is a baptistry nearby. It is ther, all closed up. Strike 4. In the same haggled piggledy piazza there is a oratorio where services are being held while the renovation works are going, on. I went over and looked. There was an empty hearse outside and 4 large men loitering in the entrance way. Another time, I thought. Not a yes, but not a strike.
Next I went to the bus depot to get some timetables of buses to other townsmen the region. After that I went into a church I passed. There was nothing particularly remarkable about it. There were 8 side chapels, each with 'candles' to ' light'. I have not noticed before, but in this church you take a candle like object and put it in an empty space on a rack which , when contact is made, lights a globe inside the pretend candle. Not what I was hoping for. Next problem was to chose which chapel would be most appropriate, which was surprisingly difficult because none appealed to me. Mission success 1, sort of.
An interlude of history fromthe Lonely Planet guide book.
San Remo gained prominence as a resort for Europe's social elite, especially British and Russian in the mid to late 19th century when the likes of empress Maria alexandrovna ( mother of Nicholas Ii, the last tsar) held court there. Now a few old hotels survive as luxury resorts but many are past their prime.
There is a Russian Orthodox church in San remo which I walked to next. It was small, with lots of coloured tiles outside. Inside were lots of paintings, either like icons or quite detailed like some of the byzantine pain tings I have seen. It was light and felt good. I sat for a while, feeling sad that I know next to nothing about my Russian grandfather. A huge plus was that they had real candles, so I chose a suitable place for the candle I lit from someone else's candle. I like the symbolism in that action. H would have been interested in the church. Mission success 2.
Home via a different piazza, aperol spritz again, a different ( accidently and hence larger) selection of lanes to return home. A lovely juicy peach and a fig for dinner.
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