Walk to Santa Maria in Cosmedin – - regarded as one of the finest medieval churches in Rome. Nice marble floor. Plain without too many ornate, twiddly bits. In portico is the Bocca della Verita.
Basilica of SS Cosma and Damiano - near Roman Forum. Built in 6th century. Small. Wonderful mosaics in apse. Quiet, peaceful cloister.
Expensive coffee – we needed a sit down in the shade and a loo.
Basilica di San Clemente - 12th century church a street level built over a 4th century church which was built over a 1st century Roman house to which was added a 2nd century temple. Amazing. Interesting frescoes. Ist built level was 10m under street level.
Nice lunch in small local place.
Bus ride to an area of fancy shops which we were really too tired to enjoy.
Expensive afternoon tea - we needed a sit down in the shade, a loo and a sugar hit.
Quick visit to Sant Agostino for Helen to see the Caravaggio that I saw a few days ago.
Home to try and work out how to fit extra purchases into bag.
Nice pizza in Campo in restaurant right next to our front door with G.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Wed highlights
Ara Pacis - marble altar built in 13 BC to honour Augustus’ return from the provinces of Spain and Gaul. Now in modern glass building
San Luigi dei Francesi – 3 more Caravaggios
Lunch in nice back street restaurant.
Santa Maria in Trastevere - great mosaics , nice feel.
Coffee in piazza watching world go past
Wandering back streets to home looking in interesting little shops
Icecream sitting in street watching the world go past
Return to shop in Trastevere by different back streets
Home for spritz and bread roll
San Luigi dei Francesi – 3 more Caravaggios
Lunch in nice back street restaurant.
Santa Maria in Trastevere - great mosaics , nice feel.
Coffee in piazza watching world go past
Wandering back streets to home looking in interesting little shops
Icecream sitting in street watching the world go past
Return to shop in Trastevere by different back streets
Home for spritz and bread roll
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Tuesday - Gallery Borghese
Today’s focus was to see the some of the paintings and sculptures in this Gallery. We got there early , lined up to get our tickets, lined up to deposit our bags, lined up to get an audio guide, then got in.. The brochure we were given had a diagram with room numbers, the rooms had numbers which were different, we had several other bits of information which did not seem to match - all very confusing. Then we discovered a piece of cardboard attached to the audioguide which seemed to match numbers on some of the paintings, so we could start looking.
We saw quite a few interesting paintings and the 6 Caravaggios I wanted to see were interesting. I have never paid much attention to sculptures but enjoyed hearing about Antonio Canova’s sculpture of Paolina Bonaparte Borghese reclining on a couch and then looking at, in more detail than before, some large works by Bernini. We ran out of time – we had 2 hours and had to leave and repeat 2 of the lining up processes
We caught a bus back to the Campo and found a nice little restaurant in a very small piazza nearby and we had a nice lunch – away from the noise that surrounds our apartment.
Another lady, G, from Canberra who was with us in Verona has joined us . She arrived this afternoon. Helen stayed home in the afternoon because she was going out with her Roman friends in the evening. I walked and walked and had a good few hours. I first went to San Pietro in Vincolo where I saw Michelangelo’s statue of Moses. Then I walked to the northern end of Rome past some very interesting shops to see 2 more of Caravaggio’s paintings in Santa Maria del Popolo, then I walked home. I took a few photos of interesting things I passed but not many.
We saw quite a few interesting paintings and the 6 Caravaggios I wanted to see were interesting. I have never paid much attention to sculptures but enjoyed hearing about Antonio Canova’s sculpture of Paolina Bonaparte Borghese reclining on a couch and then looking at, in more detail than before, some large works by Bernini. We ran out of time – we had 2 hours and had to leave and repeat 2 of the lining up processes
We caught a bus back to the Campo and found a nice little restaurant in a very small piazza nearby and we had a nice lunch – away from the noise that surrounds our apartment.
Another lady, G, from Canberra who was with us in Verona has joined us . She arrived this afternoon. Helen stayed home in the afternoon because she was going out with her Roman friends in the evening. I walked and walked and had a good few hours. I first went to San Pietro in Vincolo where I saw Michelangelo’s statue of Moses. Then I walked to the northern end of Rome past some very interesting shops to see 2 more of Caravaggio’s paintings in Santa Maria del Popolo, then I walked home. I took a few photos of interesting things I passed but not many.
Monday, September 26, 2011
Monday Rome
We had a slow start this morning – we had the beginnings of a plan, but deciding what else to do from the long list ( many places are closed on Mondays) took time, working out which button to press on the washing machine took time, waiting for it to finish took time ( the button that I thought was a quick 30 minute cycle wasnot), etc. We took a bus ( first we had to find the bus stop for the right route) and then walked ( first we had to find a way under the road and the wall) to the Gallery Borghese. It was closed, we knew, but Helen has arranged tickets for Tuesday which have to be picked up ½ hour before the allotted ticket time. The gallery opens at 9am and our allocated time is 9am. It is fairly critical that we get there in good time tomorrow so we thought a trip there today was in order – e.g. to find the bus route and the underground passageway . We wandered back though the very pleasant gardens to a church - Santa Maria del Popolo.
I have been reading about the painter Caravaggio for a while – M by Peter Robb. It is full of interesting details of his life and his paintings. I have a list of what paintings of his to see in what museums and churches. There are 2 in this church, but it was closed for lunch. Tourist literature publishes opening hours of museums and galleries, but it is harder to find church opening times - but I did forgot to look on the internet. Nevermind. Today was a no stress day.
We wandered down one of the main shopping streets to the Gallery Doria Pamphilj. This is an old Palazzo filled with paintings and different sorts of richly decorated rooms – ball rooms to dressing rooms – in different styles. We saw 3 Caravaggios, and some other paintings that we liked, then went to the supermarket, bought some dinner and came home. In the evenings before dinner we have become accustomed to having a spritz – a mixture of white wine ( sometimes prosecco), soda water and aperol ( sometimes campari). We found some little bottles of premixed spritz in the supermarket. By the time we got home it was 5.45. We dumped our stuff , put a bottle into the freezer, got into our comfortable clothes (i.e pj’s for me and nightie for Helen) and had a spritz with biscuits and cheese lolling on the lounge. Very decadent. It is now dinner time.
I have been reading about the painter Caravaggio for a while – M by Peter Robb. It is full of interesting details of his life and his paintings. I have a list of what paintings of his to see in what museums and churches. There are 2 in this church, but it was closed for lunch. Tourist literature publishes opening hours of museums and galleries, but it is harder to find church opening times - but I did forgot to look on the internet. Nevermind. Today was a no stress day.
We wandered down one of the main shopping streets to the Gallery Doria Pamphilj. This is an old Palazzo filled with paintings and different sorts of richly decorated rooms – ball rooms to dressing rooms – in different styles. We saw 3 Caravaggios, and some other paintings that we liked, then went to the supermarket, bought some dinner and came home. In the evenings before dinner we have become accustomed to having a spritz – a mixture of white wine ( sometimes prosecco), soda water and aperol ( sometimes campari). We found some little bottles of premixed spritz in the supermarket. By the time we got home it was 5.45. We dumped our stuff , put a bottle into the freezer, got into our comfortable clothes (i.e pj’s for me and nightie for Helen) and had a spritz with biscuits and cheese lolling on the lounge. Very decadent. It is now dinner time.
Sunday - Ostia Antica
Sunday was a big day.. Helen has been corresponding by email and skype with a lady in Rome, V, for almost 3 years. We met her and her husband, C, next to the statue in the middle of the Campo at 8.45. Helen had not met them before. They drove us to Ostia Antica – the ancient port of Rome. It was founded in the 4th century BCE and became a strategically important centre for defence and trade. It was populated by merchants, sailors and slaves and the ruins provide an interesting contrast to Pompei, which was a resort town for the wealthy classes.
V had arranged for us to join a tour which was a bit of a struggle – more for me than Helen - because the guide spoke in Italian. She spoke loudly and clearly and I was surprised at how much I understood. Toward the end Helen and I were wilting – it was hard work concentrating, it was hot and we were hungry. After lunch we went on a boat trip from there along the Tiber. I made no effort to follow the guide – he did not speak as clearly but I still enjoyed myself. We saw birds, very fancy boats, simple boats, fancy houses, simple houses and the mouth of the river.
After the boat trip we went back to V and C’s apartment in Rome, met their children and they gave us a lovely evening meal. Helen and I ate as little as we politely could of each course but there was still too much food for us. C speaks no English, their son speaks a fair bit, as does V. Helen follows Italian politics and was able to talk at length with them about different people and the different parties. That was a good opportunity for her.
V had arranged for us to join a tour which was a bit of a struggle – more for me than Helen - because the guide spoke in Italian. She spoke loudly and clearly and I was surprised at how much I understood. Toward the end Helen and I were wilting – it was hard work concentrating, it was hot and we were hungry. After lunch we went on a boat trip from there along the Tiber. I made no effort to follow the guide – he did not speak as clearly but I still enjoyed myself. We saw birds, very fancy boats, simple boats, fancy houses, simple houses and the mouth of the river.
After the boat trip we went back to V and C’s apartment in Rome, met their children and they gave us a lovely evening meal. Helen and I ate as little as we politely could of each course but there was still too much food for us. C speaks no English, their son speaks a fair bit, as does V. Helen follows Italian politics and was able to talk at length with them about different people and the different parties. That was a good opportunity for her.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Saturday Sorrento to Rome
My purchases all squashed into my pack. The train from Sorrento to Naples was less crowded and thus more pleasant than the trip there last Saturday. We found a very pleasant café to eat in and wait till our train to Rome. This went smoothly. Helen and I said ‘goodbye’ to our friend M and caught a taxi to the Campo de Fiori where our lovely apartment is. Having stubbornly resisted taking taxis for many years, I have decided that I have proved my point (whatever that may have been) and may get used to taking taxis. Helen is a bad (or maybe good) influence. The apartment is quite spacious, on the 4th floor of an old building into the middle of which has been put a slightly scary skinny glass lift.
We went for a walk to the nearby Piazza Navonna. My friend Helen has a bit of a problem. She has great difficulty walking past book shops without books that she has to buy leaping out at her. This problem has been much commented on over the past 4 weeks. Imagine our hilarity when we walked into this large Piazza and found a book fair. There were many tents with displays of different books. Luckily we had a plan, which we stuck to. No extra books were bought.
We wandered along the river, taking photos, but the road alongside was full of noisy, smelly, traffic. So we went in search of a bar for a drink. When in Rome… Then it was a fairly average dinner but the atmosphere was good.
Tomorrow we are going out for the day with Helen’s friend and her husband.
We went for a walk to the nearby Piazza Navonna. My friend Helen has a bit of a problem. She has great difficulty walking past book shops without books that she has to buy leaping out at her. This problem has been much commented on over the past 4 weeks. Imagine our hilarity when we walked into this large Piazza and found a book fair. There were many tents with displays of different books. Luckily we had a plan, which we stuck to. No extra books were bought.
We wandered along the river, taking photos, but the road alongside was full of noisy, smelly, traffic. So we went in search of a bar for a drink. When in Rome… Then it was a fairly average dinner but the atmosphere was good.
Tomorrow we are going out for the day with Helen’s friend and her husband.
Friday
I have just amended the headings of the last few posts – clearly I did not know what day it was.
Today we went our separate ways in the morning. Helen and M sent back home parcels rather than carry the extra weight. I think my extra purchases will fit and the extra weight will not be a problem.
I walked west along the coast, along narrow roads, past apartment blocks, big houses, hotels, plots of vegetables, corner shops. I went through the outskirts of Sant Agnello and got to Marina di Cassano in an area called Piano di Sorrento. Like all this coast, all of the development is on top of the high, high cliffs right next to the sea except in a few places along the coast where there is a bit of a beach and a place for fisherpeople’s boats and rich Italian’s pleasure boats. The path down to the Marina was closed, the road was quite narrow and dangerous for a pedestrian , so there was no option other than the lift. The marina was lovely – only local houses, fishing sheds, 2 eating places, a bar, a general store, lots of boats, fishing nets , a small chapel. There were a few families at the ‘beach’ - or what passes for a beach in Europe. The fine dark brown stuff looks very different to the yellow sand we are used to. It was rather a fast walk back to meet Helen and M for lunch.
Suprisingly, we did more shopping in the evening. I have never bought as many items of clothing for myself in an overseas trip as I have this trip. Just as well we have a full list of museums and churches to see in Rome and there will be no time for shops.
Today we went our separate ways in the morning. Helen and M sent back home parcels rather than carry the extra weight. I think my extra purchases will fit and the extra weight will not be a problem.
I walked west along the coast, along narrow roads, past apartment blocks, big houses, hotels, plots of vegetables, corner shops. I went through the outskirts of Sant Agnello and got to Marina di Cassano in an area called Piano di Sorrento. Like all this coast, all of the development is on top of the high, high cliffs right next to the sea except in a few places along the coast where there is a bit of a beach and a place for fisherpeople’s boats and rich Italian’s pleasure boats. The path down to the Marina was closed, the road was quite narrow and dangerous for a pedestrian , so there was no option other than the lift. The marina was lovely – only local houses, fishing sheds, 2 eating places, a bar, a general store, lots of boats, fishing nets , a small chapel. There were a few families at the ‘beach’ - or what passes for a beach in Europe. The fine dark brown stuff looks very different to the yellow sand we are used to. It was rather a fast walk back to meet Helen and M for lunch.
Suprisingly, we did more shopping in the evening. I have never bought as many items of clothing for myself in an overseas trip as I have this trip. Just as well we have a full list of museums and churches to see in Rome and there will be no time for shops.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Thursday - Capri
This morning we left the apartment at about 7.30 am to try and beat the hordes of people going to Capri. We got a ferry at 8.10, ate our morning croissants on board rather than in a café and immediately caught a bus up the hill to Anacapri. The views were wonderful, though the day was not as clear as the previous day. After our morning coffee ( the most expensive we have had) we visited Axel Munthe’s house San Michele. He was a 19th century Swedish writer and physician who lived here for a number of years. He built the villa on top of an old Roman villa, on the edge of the cliff. The gardens are well cared for and have assorted old statues displayed. There were lots of people around, but visiting the house was OK, but I am pleased we went when we did.
While we were having lunch we talked about whether to go in a cable car to the highest point in the island for more views or spend a few extra euros each and take a taxi ride back down the hill to Capri in a typical Caprese taxi cab – white, with no roof and coloured leather seats. We chose the taxi ride – it was great fun. Capri was far too crowded so we got the furnicular railway back to the port. We dawdled over afternoon tea and caught the ferry back to Sorrento.
While we were having lunch we talked about whether to go in a cable car to the highest point in the island for more views or spend a few extra euros each and take a taxi ride back down the hill to Capri in a typical Caprese taxi cab – white, with no roof and coloured leather seats. We chose the taxi ride – it was great fun. Capri was far too crowded so we got the furnicular railway back to the port. We dawdled over afternoon tea and caught the ferry back to Sorrento.
Wednesday
We 3 went our separate ways today. M went to Naples, Helen pottered around Sorrento and I went for a longish walk around the edge of Sorrento. I went fairly early into the centre to take some photos before the hordes were swarming and to check my emails – nothing much except adverts - ( hint, hint) and then brought my computer back to our apartment. I then went to the fishing beach for lunch, talked to some Italian tourists about the sun in Australia and why Australians wear hats everywhere . I walked up a big hill to get some photos of Sorrento and then walked around the back of Sorrento. I discovered that the map I had did not differentiate between roads like the major noisy one we are on and tiny lane ways that only a motor bike could pass down. This was a little worrying at first, but I did not get lost. It was enjoyable. I stopped at a junction and was approached by a gentleman on a motor bike asking where I wanted to go. Needless to say I was cagey and said I knew where I was going etc etc. We got talking and it was a lovely conversation. He was an ex-carabinieri and spoke good English and ( according to him) French and passable German. After several more km I went home.
The Napoli soccer team was playing again in the evening and the next door bar was full to overflowing again. Helen ( whose window is on the side of the apartment nearest the bar) said the crowd did not disperse till 1am.
The Napoli soccer team was playing again in the evening and the next door bar was full to overflowing again. Helen ( whose window is on the side of the apartment nearest the bar) said the crowd did not disperse till 1am.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Tuesday – Amalfi and Ravello
I think I have mentioned how we have been a bit surprised at how many tourists are around. The season seems to get longer each year I travel here. Today they were a problem. We organised ourselves to be at the bus stop herein Sorrento in good time to catch the bus to Amalfi. Trouble was, so had quite a few other people. We got onto the bus without too much difficulty ( and got a seat) , but it was not an orderly queue! Everyone knows that Italians donot queue orderly but neither, it seems, do other nationalities when in Italy. The ride was very picturesque and long. About half way along the route the bus filled to capacity and we past quite a few disgruntled people at bus stops.
We wandered around Amalfi for awhile. The duomo dominates the main square. The best part was the cloisters – vaguely Arabic in feel with whitewashed arches and palms growing in the middle. Then we caught a bus to Ravello. The main reason for coming here was to see the Villa Cimbrone’s gardens – a short walk from the centre of Ravello. They were lovely – well- maintained and very picturesque with beautiful views.
Back in Amalfi, we wandered along the waterfront to the hotel where John and I had stayed in 2003. We had a drink and then joined the tired, milling throng waiting for a bus back to Sorrento. Apparently the ferries which normally take many of the tourists along the coast were not working. There was no organisation. It was quite unpleasant. We pushed and shoved with everyone else and got onto a bus. After about ½ hour we finally all got a seat.
We wandered around Amalfi for awhile. The duomo dominates the main square. The best part was the cloisters – vaguely Arabic in feel with whitewashed arches and palms growing in the middle. Then we caught a bus to Ravello. The main reason for coming here was to see the Villa Cimbrone’s gardens – a short walk from the centre of Ravello. They were lovely – well- maintained and very picturesque with beautiful views.
Back in Amalfi, we wandered along the waterfront to the hotel where John and I had stayed in 2003. We had a drink and then joined the tired, milling throng waiting for a bus back to Sorrento. Apparently the ferries which normally take many of the tourists along the coast were not working. There was no organisation. It was quite unpleasant. We pushed and shoved with everyone else and got onto a bus. After about ½ hour we finally all got a seat.
Monday
Helen and I are not particularly good at shopping. We dither, we are not good at knowing whether something is made in China or Italy, we give up easily. It was good to have M with us while we bought a few souvenirs and clothes. Lunch was another delicious meal – but it is hard to get away from tourists.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Sunday in Sorrento
This apartment is on a main road. Many of the previous renters comments on the internet have referred disparagingly to the noise. They were not wrong, but we slept. The next-door bar had nice croissants and coffee, They have a wi-fi network but the lady did not know the password. I tried to find out if another person would be coming to work some other day but with no success. We set off into town, past all the touristy shops, to a place with a wonderful view of the bay. It is called the foreigner’s club and the waiter who served us was well and truly over all the tourists. He was grumpy. The cups were not particularly clean, the tea had no tea bag, the coffee had long-life milk. We wandered all around and finally got to the fishing port and ambled around, looking at the locals, the boats, the other tourists ( less than in the main part of town) . We had a nice lunch of very fresh seafood. We wandered back a different way and found a nice café which had a free wi-fi network that had been recommended to us. After a long rest we wandered out again for food.
On the way back to our apartment we passed several bars absolutely crowded with people and discovered that Napoli was playing a match. The people next door were having a party and the next door bar was filled to capacity. The noise when Napoli scored a goal (or a near miss) drowned out the traffic noise! At some point in the night there was a huge noise – an electrical storm had come to continue the night time noise. It is now raining with lightning a little way away. We have decided not to go to Amalfi and will potter around here.
On the way back to our apartment we passed several bars absolutely crowded with people and discovered that Napoli was playing a match. The people next door were having a party and the next door bar was filled to capacity. The noise when Napoli scored a goal (or a near miss) drowned out the traffic noise! At some point in the night there was a huge noise – an electrical storm had come to continue the night time noise. It is now raining with lightning a little way away. We have decided not to go to Amalfi and will potter around here.
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Saturday - a tiring day
The day started off well with the transport from the place where we were staying to the train station arriving on time.
We then caught the 3 trains - all on time without too much hassle. Ernesto was at the sSorrento train tation to take us to the apartment. This is large and comfortable, but on a very noisy street
I am currently sitting in an internet cafe. It is Sunday 3pm. We have had a lovely lunch overlooking part of the fishing hrbour.
We then caught the 3 trains - all on time without too much hassle. Ernesto was at the sSorrento train tation to take us to the apartment. This is large and comfortable, but on a very noisy street
I am currently sitting in an internet cafe. It is Sunday 3pm. We have had a lovely lunch overlooking part of the fishing hrbour.
Friday - last day of school
After lunch, some of the group went to see an Italian film made in 1954. I went back to the Duomo to see the bits I missed because of the wedding preparations when I was there previously. This time I got an interesting brochure about the church. Attached to the current cathedral are 2 smaller, older churches. One is a baptistery – a smallish church with a huge baptismal font right in the centre. This was carved from one huge marble block and has interesting scenes from the gospels carved around it. The church of St Elena is adjacent. It was built in the 9th century on top of some old Roman ruins. Some of these you can see through open bits of the floor. Once again, nice cloisters.
While I was having afternoon tea at the nice café I found the week before, I planned the next part of the day. I caught a bus that crossed the river and went up the hill. I had no idea what I would find, but that was part of the fun. I walked down the hill, hoping to find a way through the big houses and apartment blocks to the park which looked, from the map, like it had walking tracks through it. Unfortunately, I either ended up in people’s back yards or at locked gates. I did stumble across a modern church – 30 years old maybe, with modern stained glass windows and interesting architecture. By the time I got home it was dinner time – more food and wine.
While I was having afternoon tea at the nice café I found the week before, I planned the next part of the day. I caught a bus that crossed the river and went up the hill. I had no idea what I would find, but that was part of the fun. I walked down the hill, hoping to find a way through the big houses and apartment blocks to the park which looked, from the map, like it had walking tracks through it. Unfortunately, I either ended up in people’s back yards or at locked gates. I did stumble across a modern church – 30 years old maybe, with modern stained glass windows and interesting architecture. By the time I got home it was dinner time – more food and wine.
Friday, September 16, 2011
Friday morning early, before class.
Tomorrow we are travelling by train ( 3 of them) to Sorrento. We get a taxi from here at 7.45 am and do not expect to be in Sorrento till 5pm ish – then we will be met and taken to the apartment. It will be a long day. The apartment does not advertise an internet connection, and I am having a day off on Sunday, so donot panic if you donot hear from me for a few days.
Thursday
After class today I had the choice of going to Mantova for the afternoon – a bus, then train, then wander around looking at things I saw 4 years ago, then train and bus home - the option a dutiful person who takes full advantage of her opportunities would take – or potter sorting out a few more photos, go to the Post Office, go to the market place to buy a few souvenirs, idly wander past shops, sit at a table in a little side street having a drink watching the locals go past, look in toy shops for ideas, go through the literature to see what else to see on the last day - the choice of someone having a relaxing holiday. Guess what option I took?
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Wednesday
After lunch I passed on the talk by the ‘art historian’ . The talk I listened to 2 weeks ago was interesting, but a lot of time was spent standing around. I have felt like I wanted some exercise for several days so this afternoon I set off in a NW direction along the road that follows the river Adige ( the river that runs through Verona). I walked briskly the 7 1/2 kilometres to a little town called Parona. It was a pleasant walk – first through the city then rural things – vineyards, large market gardens, small factories, fancy agritourismo places. Only trouble was the heat. I try and ignore the weather when I am away, but today I was definitely hot. On the bus back into town ( I had picked a route and destination to walk to that I could return easily from by a fairly regularly running bus) I saw a sign that said 32 degrees. Apparently this is the hottest September on record.
When I get a coffee I often ask for a glass of tap water, but today for the first time I asked for a refill. I have never seen a local do this. But I did not see anyone else out walking this afternoon either.
I went into Santo Stefano, one of the city’s oldest churches. It was light with lots of old frescoes. There was a stone bishop’s seat with only a very thin cushion. After sitting on the stone seats in the Arena to watch the operas, I feel sorry for the bishops. There was an interesting gallery behind the apse – apparently a Byzantine feature. I donot recall seeing anything like it before.
San Giorgio in Braida had some good paintings. There was lots of information about St George and several paintings depicting parts of his life. It is a rare example of a domed Renaissance church built in 1477.
I walked back to my room, via a bar where I had a spritz and more water ( I did carry some, but not enough) and read (sort of) one of the daily sport newspapers. The Italians have a curious habit of putting the ages into the description of people. Maybe the ages of the sporting stars is OK, but who wants to know if a particular team’s manager , e.g, is 40,45 or 48?
When I get a coffee I often ask for a glass of tap water, but today for the first time I asked for a refill. I have never seen a local do this. But I did not see anyone else out walking this afternoon either.
I went into Santo Stefano, one of the city’s oldest churches. It was light with lots of old frescoes. There was a stone bishop’s seat with only a very thin cushion. After sitting on the stone seats in the Arena to watch the operas, I feel sorry for the bishops. There was an interesting gallery behind the apse – apparently a Byzantine feature. I donot recall seeing anything like it before.
San Giorgio in Braida had some good paintings. There was lots of information about St George and several paintings depicting parts of his life. It is a rare example of a domed Renaissance church built in 1477.
I walked back to my room, via a bar where I had a spritz and more water ( I did carry some, but not enough) and read (sort of) one of the daily sport newspapers. The Italians have a curious habit of putting the ages into the description of people. Maybe the ages of the sporting stars is OK, but who wants to know if a particular team’s manager , e.g, is 40,45 or 48?
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Tuesday
Our class was interesting again. Because my Italian learning over the past 5 years has been quite patchy, it has been good to have some topics properly explained from start to finish – maybe not ‘finish’, but a large part .e.g direct and indirect pronouns, and the conditional tense.
After lunch I went for a walk into the main touristy part of town intending to look for some little souvenirs. Instead I bought a new leather handbag. 2 weeks ago many shops had their end-of-summer sales on. Now everything in the shops is winter. From now on I will go back to looking at churches and museums. In the late afternoon we ( our group of 20) watched and listened to a chef prepare us an interesting meal. We ate together in the evening and then several of the group members put on a little concert. We laughed and laughed, sang along when appropriate and thoroughly appreciated the skills of the performers.
After lunch I went for a walk into the main touristy part of town intending to look for some little souvenirs. Instead I bought a new leather handbag. 2 weeks ago many shops had their end-of-summer sales on. Now everything in the shops is winter. From now on I will go back to looking at churches and museums. In the late afternoon we ( our group of 20) watched and listened to a chef prepare us an interesting meal. We ate together in the evening and then several of the group members put on a little concert. We laughed and laughed, sang along when appropriate and thoroughly appreciated the skills of the performers.
Monday - A possibly dangerous event
In my last 3 trips to Italy I have done a fair bit of window shopping but never have I tried on anything that required disrobing ( or dis-shoeing) . This afternoon I tried on and then bought a pair of sandals. It was not too difficult. I got over my embarrassment at sitting next to several beautifully pedicured Italian women and taking off my clean , well-worn, very comfortable granny shoes ( Rockport walkers) and thick cushioning black socks. The sandals were a very good price – end of summer season. There are several other pairs of shoes that I may go back and try. If I can try on shoes, maybe I can venture into a clothes shop? My past reticence has had nothing to do with language - I have had enough to try on shoes for several years.
It has been quite hot here. I try not to let weather bother me – I have no choice in clothing, so why think about it? My feet (the spaces between my toes, to be more precise) have suffered from being wet from perspiration a large part of each day. Hopefully wearing the sandals to class, rather than shoes and socks will help.
After the shock of the purchase I had to have a coffee to recover. Then I went into the Castelvecchio. This medieval fortress was damaged in WW2 but scrupulously restored by Carlo Scarpa in the early 1960’s. It now houses a large museum. The rooms lead from one to another. Big rooms, small rooms, open air walkways, courtyards, views of the building from different angles, views of the city. The whole place has a nice feel to it, but I think there were too many paintings. It took a while to wade through the ‘also rans’ to get to the good paintings. There were several rooms of spears, helmets etc but I am afraid I just thought ‘So what, I have just seen Otzi’s bow and arrows’
It has been quite hot here. I try not to let weather bother me – I have no choice in clothing, so why think about it? My feet (the spaces between my toes, to be more precise) have suffered from being wet from perspiration a large part of each day. Hopefully wearing the sandals to class, rather than shoes and socks will help.
After the shock of the purchase I had to have a coffee to recover. Then I went into the Castelvecchio. This medieval fortress was damaged in WW2 but scrupulously restored by Carlo Scarpa in the early 1960’s. It now houses a large museum. The rooms lead from one to another. Big rooms, small rooms, open air walkways, courtyards, views of the building from different angles, views of the city. The whole place has a nice feel to it, but I think there were too many paintings. It took a while to wade through the ‘also rans’ to get to the good paintings. There were several rooms of spears, helmets etc but I am afraid I just thought ‘So what, I have just seen Otzi’s bow and arrows’
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Sunday Bolzano
After my ‘catch up’ afternoon on Saturday I was looking forward to somewhere different on Sunday. I was not disappointed. We caught the train north and I was surprised at how quickly we were out of the plains and climbing along a valley with steep mountains on either side.
Bolzano is north of Verona in the South Tyrol area. It has only been part of Italy since after WW1 . 26% of the people are German and all the official signs seem to be in both languages. There are special administrative arrangements to help the German people maintain their ethnic identity. Apparently the Dalai Lama has visited several times to see if the same system could work in Tibet.
There was a German festival being held on the day we visited. We walked from the train station through the streets, through the main square filled with trestle tables and little stalls selling sausages, meat, beer, potatoes, apple strudel, beer, more sausages and more beer. Lots of people. First off we went to see the exhibition of Otsi. In September 1991 2 walkers stumbled across a body which had been frozen in ice for 5300 years. The exhibition was excellent. It went through the discovery, how details of his life were found out, info on the contents of his backpack, his clothes, all sorts of things, how his body (which we saw through glass) was preserved. It was one of those things that you know you will remember for a long time.
By then it was lunch time. While we ate sausages etc we watched some young girls doing several German dances that involved a lot of foot stamping, hand clapping, hand to feet clapping, leg kicks into the air, jumping off and on benches - a lot of hard, well coordinated effort.
Next was an amazing cable car ride that went high up into the mountains to Upper Bolzano. We looked out over isolated farmhouses, little hamlets, valleys, spectacular views. After coffee at one of the fancy hotels we came back down the mountain and back to Verona
Bolzano is north of Verona in the South Tyrol area. It has only been part of Italy since after WW1 . 26% of the people are German and all the official signs seem to be in both languages. There are special administrative arrangements to help the German people maintain their ethnic identity. Apparently the Dalai Lama has visited several times to see if the same system could work in Tibet.
There was a German festival being held on the day we visited. We walked from the train station through the streets, through the main square filled with trestle tables and little stalls selling sausages, meat, beer, potatoes, apple strudel, beer, more sausages and more beer. Lots of people. First off we went to see the exhibition of Otsi. In September 1991 2 walkers stumbled across a body which had been frozen in ice for 5300 years. The exhibition was excellent. It went through the discovery, how details of his life were found out, info on the contents of his backpack, his clothes, all sorts of things, how his body (which we saw through glass) was preserved. It was one of those things that you know you will remember for a long time.
By then it was lunch time. While we ate sausages etc we watched some young girls doing several German dances that involved a lot of foot stamping, hand clapping, hand to feet clapping, leg kicks into the air, jumping off and on benches - a lot of hard, well coordinated effort.
Next was an amazing cable car ride that went high up into the mountains to Upper Bolzano. We looked out over isolated farmhouses, little hamlets, valleys, spectacular views. After coffee at one of the fancy hotels we came back down the mountain and back to Verona
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Saturday morning
Today most of the group went to Venice for the day. I did not go. I have very good memories of my 2 weeks there 2 years ago and did not want to risk spoiling those memories. I wanted to see some more things here on my own, and wanted to catch up (actually start) organising my photos. I started the day with coffee and a croissant sitting in the Piazza delle Erbe – one of the 2 main piazzas. I got there early, before the piazza and the cafés got too crowded. Of the 12 or so cafes, about half were still closed, and the others had at most ¼ tables occupied, mostly by locals.
After spending quite a while there I moved onto the main church in town, the Duomo or Santa Maria Matricolare. I arrived at 9.30, when I thought it opened, and walked in through the open door. The door was open because there were quite a few people there preparing it for a wedding – about 4 florists, 4 floor sweepers, 2 carpet unrollers, 2 supervising ladies, 2 watchful priests and other comers and goers. Noone took any notice of me, so I sat quietly, read my literature, wandered around looking at paintings , admired the new round modern chairs made of the local pink marble around the new altar on the same level as the pews, admired the flower decorations, listened to the organist practising. By the time I went to leave the lady in the little booth at the entrance had arrived. She had put up a notice – closed for a service – and very pleasantly waved me through when I offered to pay the regular 2.5 euros.
Next I thought a quick coffee was in order. I went into a nearby unassuming bar and was surprised to find a large outdoor vine and umbrella covered area almost full of locals. I sat down for another cappuccino and croissant. Next to me were a group of young women, there were several single old men reading newspapers, several groups of women of all ages, a table with 3 immaculately dressed policemen and 1 portly black-robed middle-aged priest, a table with 2 grandparents and their 2 grandchildren. I think everyone was Italian other than me. There was gentle classical music in the background. Very civilised.
Next I went back to near the Piazza delle Erbe where there is a photographic exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson’s work in an underground area called the Scavi Scaligeri. This is an archaeological site that was excavated in the 1980’s and includes Roman roads, parts of Roman houses, parts of a burial ground from the middle ages etc. There are some large round windows in the pavement of the footpaths above that people can look through from above ( and that let light into the excavation site) . I am not sure what the connection was between the photos and the old bits and pieces, but both were interesting.
Lunch time was approaching. I wandered past a few restaurants that had been recommended but it was a bit early. I donot like being the first person in a restaurant. I found a place in a side street that had a few locals sitting at outside tables. Quite often bars have some precooked food on display . This varies from a few bits of pizza to quite a few fancy dishes. This was 1 of the latter. I had a nice plate of food containing some artichoke lasagne, some of an interesting eggplant dish, some fancy semi dried tomatoes and a few other things. Lots of locals coming and going.
I bought some postcards on the way back to my room.
After spending quite a while there I moved onto the main church in town, the Duomo or Santa Maria Matricolare. I arrived at 9.30, when I thought it opened, and walked in through the open door. The door was open because there were quite a few people there preparing it for a wedding – about 4 florists, 4 floor sweepers, 2 carpet unrollers, 2 supervising ladies, 2 watchful priests and other comers and goers. Noone took any notice of me, so I sat quietly, read my literature, wandered around looking at paintings , admired the new round modern chairs made of the local pink marble around the new altar on the same level as the pews, admired the flower decorations, listened to the organist practising. By the time I went to leave the lady in the little booth at the entrance had arrived. She had put up a notice – closed for a service – and very pleasantly waved me through when I offered to pay the regular 2.5 euros.
Next I thought a quick coffee was in order. I went into a nearby unassuming bar and was surprised to find a large outdoor vine and umbrella covered area almost full of locals. I sat down for another cappuccino and croissant. Next to me were a group of young women, there were several single old men reading newspapers, several groups of women of all ages, a table with 3 immaculately dressed policemen and 1 portly black-robed middle-aged priest, a table with 2 grandparents and their 2 grandchildren. I think everyone was Italian other than me. There was gentle classical music in the background. Very civilised.
Next I went back to near the Piazza delle Erbe where there is a photographic exhibition of Henri Cartier-Bresson’s work in an underground area called the Scavi Scaligeri. This is an archaeological site that was excavated in the 1980’s and includes Roman roads, parts of Roman houses, parts of a burial ground from the middle ages etc. There are some large round windows in the pavement of the footpaths above that people can look through from above ( and that let light into the excavation site) . I am not sure what the connection was between the photos and the old bits and pieces, but both were interesting.
Lunch time was approaching. I wandered past a few restaurants that had been recommended but it was a bit early. I donot like being the first person in a restaurant. I found a place in a side street that had a few locals sitting at outside tables. Quite often bars have some precooked food on display . This varies from a few bits of pizza to quite a few fancy dishes. This was 1 of the latter. I had a nice plate of food containing some artichoke lasagne, some of an interesting eggplant dish, some fancy semi dried tomatoes and a few other things. Lots of locals coming and going.
I bought some postcards on the way back to my room.
Friday – Valpolicello
After lunch we went on a bus trip organised by the language school. There were most of us Australians and about 10 others. First we went to a small town in the Valpolicello wine area NW of here called San Georgio di Valpolicello. This was a lovely small , fairly unadorned church built on the same site as a pre-christian gathering place. There were 12th century frescoes on the walls. We went in a back way, past the choir boy robes. It was obviously still in regular use.
Next to the church, the only commercial building in the town seemed to be the bar/café/restaurant/community meeting place where we had a nice fizzy not-too-sweet lemon drink and a delicious almond biscuit.
We walked down the hill to the bus and went onto a winery. This was in the adjacent Bardolino area. Apparently both bardolino and valpolicello are 2 different styles of red wine made from the same 3 grapes, Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara. Not that I have heard of any of the 3. A lady told us about the different wines that her winery made, showed us some old equipment, showed us the new bottling machinery through a glass window, showed us some of their vines and took us into their cantina , talked to us about the barrels and then gave us a taste of 2 of their wines.
The 3rd stop was the town of Bordelino on the shore of Lake Garda – about 10 minutes drive away from Lazise, the town we went to the previous weekend. It was another small oldish town that seems now to exist for tourists. The gelato was good!
Next to the church, the only commercial building in the town seemed to be the bar/café/restaurant/community meeting place where we had a nice fizzy not-too-sweet lemon drink and a delicious almond biscuit.
We walked down the hill to the bus and went onto a winery. This was in the adjacent Bardolino area. Apparently both bardolino and valpolicello are 2 different styles of red wine made from the same 3 grapes, Corvina Veronese, Rondinella and Molinara. Not that I have heard of any of the 3. A lady told us about the different wines that her winery made, showed us some old equipment, showed us the new bottling machinery through a glass window, showed us some of their vines and took us into their cantina , talked to us about the barrels and then gave us a taste of 2 of their wines.
The 3rd stop was the town of Bordelino on the shore of Lake Garda – about 10 minutes drive away from Lazise, the town we went to the previous weekend. It was another small oldish town that seems now to exist for tourists. The gelato was good!
Friday, September 9, 2011
Thursday Vicenza
After lunch today we went to Vicenza. This city follows the pattern of many northern cities – development under Imperial Rome, destruction by Attila, Lombard occupation, rule by the Scaligeri family of Verona in the 14th century, then absorption into the Venetian empire in 1404. It is now a wealthy, prosperous place. It’s main claim to tourist fame are the many buildings designed by Andrea Palladio in the 2nd half of the 1500’s. He was a very influential figure in Western architecture.
Getting there was a bit tiresome. There was rather more waiting around than usual because of a cancelled train. The next one was a slow train, stopping all stops. This meant that we did not get there in time to see the main sight – the Teatro Olimpico.. We did have an enjoyable time walking around the streets , looking at the buildings and piazzas. The mascarpone, fig and caramel gelato was delicious.
Getting there was a bit tiresome. There was rather more waiting around than usual because of a cancelled train. The next one was a slow train, stopping all stops. This meant that we did not get there in time to see the main sight – the Teatro Olimpico.. We did have an enjoyable time walking around the streets , looking at the buildings and piazzas. The mascarpone, fig and caramel gelato was delicious.
Wednesday
Wednesday was an easy day. M is coming to Sorrento with Helen and me and after lunch she came to the train station with me to by our tickets. For the first time in my many train travels in Italy I will be travelling first class. There is currently a promotion for travelling on Saturdays – buy 2 tickets for the price of 1. They had run out of the allocated number of promotion seats in second class. 2 first class tickets are cheaper than 3 second class tickets. So we have 3 first class seats - at least from Verona to Roma. Rome to Naples is second class.
I wandered the streets for a while . We had another picnic in the evening.
I wandered the streets for a while . We had another picnic in the evening.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Tuesday – San Zeno Maggiore
I wandered the streets on a deliberately very roundabout route to this church this afternoon. San Zeno is the patron saint of Verona. He was born in Africa , was the 8th bishop of Verona in the 460’s and converted the town to Christianity. He is pictured as a smiling black man , often with a fishing rod. There is a statue of him in the church with a cheeky grin and a fish on the end of his bishop’s crook.
The earliest church was built here in the 5h century but has been added to at different times over the years. The main bits were built in the early 1100’s. It is now considered to be one of the best examples of a Romanesque church in Northern Italy. Some of the literature says it is a mish mash of style – but that only matters if you have a clear idea of the different styles, which I donot. It was large and bright and airy. Different colours of local marble have been used. The façade is supposed to be really special but it was undergoing renovation and covered up.
There is a lovely brightly coloured , vibrant 3 part altarpiece done by Mantegna. There are 48 brass panels on the door depicting many different scenes. There is a crypt with a vaulted ceiling and many columns – lots of little cupola like shapes in the ceiling.
There are frescoes around the walls.
It was also not filled with tour groups – only a few other tourists and some locals
The cloisters were lovely – quiet and peaceful. It has rounded Romanesque arches on one side and pointed Gothic arches on the other. I have to say, that I have only just read that bit - I did not notice at the time, but it is clear from the many photos I took..
The earliest church was built here in the 5h century but has been added to at different times over the years. The main bits were built in the early 1100’s. It is now considered to be one of the best examples of a Romanesque church in Northern Italy. Some of the literature says it is a mish mash of style – but that only matters if you have a clear idea of the different styles, which I donot. It was large and bright and airy. Different colours of local marble have been used. The façade is supposed to be really special but it was undergoing renovation and covered up.
There is a lovely brightly coloured , vibrant 3 part altarpiece done by Mantegna. There are 48 brass panels on the door depicting many different scenes. There is a crypt with a vaulted ceiling and many columns – lots of little cupola like shapes in the ceiling.
There are frescoes around the walls.
It was also not filled with tour groups – only a few other tourists and some locals
The cloisters were lovely – quiet and peaceful. It has rounded Romanesque arches on one side and pointed Gothic arches on the other. I have to say, that I have only just read that bit - I did not notice at the time, but it is clear from the many photos I took..
Monday, September 5, 2011
Monday – an Expedition to the other side of the river.
The school has a canteen with good value lunches, sometimes a little boring, but fast. Helen, M and I decided to have lunches at the school this week because we felt we were wasting too much time most afternoons having a nice long relaxing lunch and not spending enough time seeing the sights. How boring are we?
The main old part of Verona is built in a bend of a river – like an upside down U. Today, after classes and lunch, we caught a bus which took a round about route to the other side of the river.
Our first stop was Chiesa di Santo Stefano – not open. Not important , plenty more to see. Next stop Teatro Romano. Built 1st Century BCE. This has been much restored. Still has stone steps and a loggia and some walls. Up the hill is a museum with different Greek, Roman and Etruscan old plates, jars, etc and some mosaic floors. By far the best part was the magnificent views of Verona. We thought a gelato would be nice but walked on to the next place – the highlight for me – without finding a gelato shop.
Santa Maria in Organo was amazing. One commentator has said that the wooden choir stalls are the best in Italy. Dating from the 1490’s , the marquetry was the work of Fra Giovanni, a Benedictine monk. He worked for 25 years cutting and assembling complex, coloured images of animals, birds, landscapes, buildings, religious scenes, musical and scientific instruments in many panels. The use of perspective was really suprising.
We continued our walk to look at some gardens, still looking for a gelato shop. The gardens looked interesting, but we decided we did not want to spend the 5 euro entry fee, but would come back on another day for a picnic. We then decided that, given that is was after 5pm by that stage, that we would stop at either a gelato shop or a bar, whichever came first. – a bit of a no-brainer – gelato shops are in touristy areas, bars are everywhere and we were in a residential area, so we had a spritz and some chips and water and revived enough to continue. The next church we came to , San Tomaso, was dedicated to St Thomas a Becket ( why?) but there was a sort of service going on so we just sat at the back for a bit.
We wandered home , had dinner at a self-service place we had been to before, then had our gelato as we walked the rest of the way.
The main old part of Verona is built in a bend of a river – like an upside down U. Today, after classes and lunch, we caught a bus which took a round about route to the other side of the river.
Our first stop was Chiesa di Santo Stefano – not open. Not important , plenty more to see. Next stop Teatro Romano. Built 1st Century BCE. This has been much restored. Still has stone steps and a loggia and some walls. Up the hill is a museum with different Greek, Roman and Etruscan old plates, jars, etc and some mosaic floors. By far the best part was the magnificent views of Verona. We thought a gelato would be nice but walked on to the next place – the highlight for me – without finding a gelato shop.
Santa Maria in Organo was amazing. One commentator has said that the wooden choir stalls are the best in Italy. Dating from the 1490’s , the marquetry was the work of Fra Giovanni, a Benedictine monk. He worked for 25 years cutting and assembling complex, coloured images of animals, birds, landscapes, buildings, religious scenes, musical and scientific instruments in many panels. The use of perspective was really suprising.
We continued our walk to look at some gardens, still looking for a gelato shop. The gardens looked interesting, but we decided we did not want to spend the 5 euro entry fee, but would come back on another day for a picnic. We then decided that, given that is was after 5pm by that stage, that we would stop at either a gelato shop or a bar, whichever came first. – a bit of a no-brainer – gelato shops are in touristy areas, bars are everywhere and we were in a residential area, so we had a spritz and some chips and water and revived enough to continue. The next church we came to , San Tomaso, was dedicated to St Thomas a Becket ( why?) but there was a sort of service going on so we just sat at the back for a bit.
We wandered home , had dinner at a self-service place we had been to before, then had our gelato as we walked the rest of the way.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
Sunday Padova
Over the past week, Helen, M and I have tried different bars for our morning cappuccino and croissant. This morning we tried a local psaticceria and had a nice cup of coffee and a wholemeal croissant which was a bit different and tasty. We went to Padova by train and walked to Café Pedrocchi, where we had coffee and lunch. This café first opened in 1851 and has been the scene for many a political and philosophical discussion over the years. It was a centre for the Risorgamento movement aimed at liberating Italy from it’s Austrian rulers.
Palazzo della Regione – this was originally built in 1218 to provide the city with a prison and public offices. It is a huge room which has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. It now has a timber ceiling like a ship’s keel very similar to the original design. There are frescoes around the walls and a huge carved timber horse at one end and nothing else.
Scrovengi Chapel. This was built by Enrico Scrovengi in 1803 who hoped, by doing so, to spare his father, an usurer, from eternal damnation. The chapel is filled with frescoes depicting the life of Christ painted by the Florentine painter Giotto between 1803 and 1805. Before we went in we sat in an air conditioned room - a decontamination chamber - watching a film. We were only allowed 15 minutes in the chapel. It was light and bright and the overall effect was quite stunning.
Basilica di Sant’ Antonio - was built to house the remains of St Anthony of Padua – a Fransiscan monk who did good deeds and died in 1231.. It was a peculiar mixture of byzantine domes, minaret like towers, gothic twiddly bits, ornate carved bits. Inside was a real mixture too. It was 4.30 ish, a storm was approaching, a service was going on with a fairly full congregation. I was not comfortable, but not sure why. It was dark – but maybe that was the approaching storm. I listened to the service for a while and was surprised at how much I could understand – until the sermon started. There were many added on chapels, most with queues of people waiting to go in and see whatever relic was on display. I bypassed several. Dead people’s fingers and hair do nothing for me! Or worse than nothing. There was a nice chapel with a painted blue ceiling with gold stars. The cloisters were peaceful. Outside was an imposing statue of a mercenary soldier called Gattamellata done by Donatello. Apparently it is one of his most famous works, done in the late 1440’s.
It is now Monday morning. I am finally up-to-date. My photos are another matter.
Palazzo della Regione – this was originally built in 1218 to provide the city with a prison and public offices. It is a huge room which has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. It now has a timber ceiling like a ship’s keel very similar to the original design. There are frescoes around the walls and a huge carved timber horse at one end and nothing else.
Scrovengi Chapel. This was built by Enrico Scrovengi in 1803 who hoped, by doing so, to spare his father, an usurer, from eternal damnation. The chapel is filled with frescoes depicting the life of Christ painted by the Florentine painter Giotto between 1803 and 1805. Before we went in we sat in an air conditioned room - a decontamination chamber - watching a film. We were only allowed 15 minutes in the chapel. It was light and bright and the overall effect was quite stunning.
Basilica di Sant’ Antonio - was built to house the remains of St Anthony of Padua – a Fransiscan monk who did good deeds and died in 1231.. It was a peculiar mixture of byzantine domes, minaret like towers, gothic twiddly bits, ornate carved bits. Inside was a real mixture too. It was 4.30 ish, a storm was approaching, a service was going on with a fairly full congregation. I was not comfortable, but not sure why. It was dark – but maybe that was the approaching storm. I listened to the service for a while and was surprised at how much I could understand – until the sermon started. There were many added on chapels, most with queues of people waiting to go in and see whatever relic was on display. I bypassed several. Dead people’s fingers and hair do nothing for me! Or worse than nothing. There was a nice chapel with a painted blue ceiling with gold stars. The cloisters were peaceful. Outside was an imposing statue of a mercenary soldier called Gattamellata done by Donatello. Apparently it is one of his most famous works, done in the late 1440’s.
It is now Monday morning. I am finally up-to-date. My photos are another matter.
Saturday Lake Garda
Once again – this is briefer than my usual descriptions of my days when I am travelling on my own. I spend more time eating , drinking, laughing, waiting with the group etc than when on my own. Homework?? Hmm. Not really an excuse I can use.
We all went together to the train / bus station to catch a local bus to Sirmione, a finger of land extending into the southern end of Lake Garda, about 1 ½ hours away. There were little alleys, lots of flowers in window boxes, swish restaurants, fancy hotels, shops selling niceish touristy things and fancy clothes. Helen and I walked past the shops to a park with lots of old olive trees on the tip of the peninsular. There were ruins of villas, baths and shops built as a resort for wealthy Romans from the 1st century BCE. Catullus, the Roman poet, owned a villa here. There were beautiful views. There was also a castle built by the Scagliere family. Which we did not see.
From there we caught a ferry to a town Lazise on the eastern shore. It used to be a port for the Venetians when they ruled this part of the world. Now it is a little summer holiday town with a peaceful little church and some nice coffee places ( we sat in one) and many shops ( others bought things) .
Bus home was crowded and hot
We all went together to the train / bus station to catch a local bus to Sirmione, a finger of land extending into the southern end of Lake Garda, about 1 ½ hours away. There were little alleys, lots of flowers in window boxes, swish restaurants, fancy hotels, shops selling niceish touristy things and fancy clothes. Helen and I walked past the shops to a park with lots of old olive trees on the tip of the peninsular. There were ruins of villas, baths and shops built as a resort for wealthy Romans from the 1st century BCE. Catullus, the Roman poet, owned a villa here. There were beautiful views. There was also a castle built by the Scagliere family. Which we did not see.
From there we caught a ferry to a town Lazise on the eastern shore. It used to be a port for the Venetians when they ruled this part of the world. Now it is a little summer holiday town with a peaceful little church and some nice coffee places ( we sat in one) and many shops ( others bought things) .
Bus home was crowded and hot
Friday and La Boheme
More lessons – enjoyable but it is annoying how easily I go blank when asked a question in class than I know perfectly well.
In the evening we had an early meal then I went to La Boheme with most of the group. It was good, but I only stayed for the first act. It was interesting how they created a set in such a huge space that recreated the intimacy of a French attic. . The music and singing were great but I needed sleep.
In the evening we had an early meal then I went to La Boheme with most of the group. It was good, but I only stayed for the first act. It was interesting how they created a set in such a huge space that recreated the intimacy of a French attic. . The music and singing were great but I needed sleep.
Last Wednesday
I forgot to record our walk to the Tomb of the Scaligere family. This family ruled Verona from 1277 to the end of the 14th century. They brought an era of peace and prosperity to the city. The first of them was called the Cangrande ( big dog) , another was called Cansignorio ( Lord dog) and another Mastino ( mastiff). The ‘tomb’ is a collection of gothic structures with spires, arches and lots of ornate twiddly bits.
We then went to the Basilica of Sant Anastasia and were told many details of the church and some of the paintings. The group was from the language school and , because not all the students spoke English, the guide would say everything in both English and Italian. It was interesting, but I was tired and it was hard to concentrate. I would start to switch off when the Italian started and miss the start of the next English bit, alternatively, listen to the Italian bit, understand it ( mostly), switch off when the English started - he was not consistent in which language he used first - and then miss the start of the next bit of English.
We then went to the Basilica of Sant Anastasia and were told many details of the church and some of the paintings. The group was from the language school and , because not all the students spoke English, the guide would say everything in both English and Italian. It was interesting, but I was tired and it was hard to concentrate. I would start to switch off when the Italian started and miss the start of the next English bit, alternatively, listen to the Italian bit, understand it ( mostly), switch off when the English started - he was not consistent in which language he used first - and then miss the start of the next bit of English.
Friday, September 2, 2011
Aida and Thursday
The atmosphere was amazing. Thousands of people in this huge ancient arena. We got there about ½ hour before it started and squeezed into the cheapest area. We sat on huge stone steps. We were side on to the stage. I looked directly at the orchestra pit. Not the best seats in the house! The people around us were mainly local families. I had heard that there were often noisy tourists, but near us, hardly anyone made any noise at all. It started at 8pm and finished at 1 am. I was a bit foggy in class the next day. I enjoyed the music and the singing and the whole experience.
After a nice lunch - this time I had the tortelli con zucca ( sort of pumpkin ravioli) and Helen and M had capunsei ( small gnocchi like things) - I went to the tourist office to see if there were exhibitions on that I wanted to see and to get a bus route map. I also bought a proper map of Verona and some groceries. I had my first gelato of the trip. What restraint.
Helen, M and I had a simple picnic of rolls, cheese and tomato overlooking the river at the end of the street rather than go with the others to a fancy place and be up till late.
Thursday, September 1, 2011
No Time to Write
It is Wednesday evening and I am supposed to be having a rest before going to Aida this evening. I am having a very good and full time. This will be brief.
Monday – test to find which of 4 classes we should be put into. Lunch in canteen - cheap but bit ordinary. Afternoon went into main part of town to get a card which gives me access to the Verona wide wireless network – assuming the local hotspot is up and running ( not always the case here I have found) . Helen and I have a new friend who we get on well with. I shall call her M. She laughs and helps us behave like 3 silly school girls sometimes. She is good at not letting me get too serious about things. We had afternoon tea at a nice café and in the evening went to a nice restaurant nearby.
Tuesday. I am pleased with the class I am in. I have to work, but I do not feel out of my depth. We go to class from 9.30 to 11 and 11.30 to 1. Yesterday afternoon we went to a talk on Aida. It was very interesting. A gentleman described as a maestro went through the story talking about and playing the music on the piano associated with the different characters. In the evening we 3 and another from our class went looking for a nice bar. We found one right next to an old Roman gate in a nice part of town and sat sipping , in my case, an aperativ della casa for about an hour watching the beautiful people walk past. The restaurant we were heading for was full so we found another in a beautiful piazza that did not cost an arm and a leg. We had a nice meal. Sitting next to me was a lady on her own who we all spoke to , but I talked to her most. She was there to go tango dancing in the next piazza, so we had to stay and watch them for a while, which meant yet another late night.
This morning, like yesterday, I went for a walk before breakfast. It was lovely to see the sunrise over the city. After lunch we 3 plus another different class member found a little suburban restaurant that does not cater for tourists. It was very nice. Noone was game to have the dish that contained horse meat – a local delicacy. Helen had a dish very similar to 1 I had several years ago in Mantua – not far down the road – of ravioli like pasta filled with pumpkin and crushed amaretti biscuits in a sage and butter ( I think) sauce.
I have now to get into my glad rags for the opera. I have arranged it so the best of my 2 pairs of pants ( black) and the nicest of my shirts are clean, but a joke was made of my attire earlier today, so I now have to clean my shoes to show I have made some effort.
It is now Thursday morning and I am sitting in the classroom 1/2 before the lesson starts. Did I mention homework? Funny about that - it seems to fall off the bottom of ech day's list. Too much eating and drinking and living to do.
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