Thursday, November 26, 2009

more photos


Mr DW up close and personal with a very old Buddha image

Ta Prohm

Angkor Wat



Local delights!



Photos


National museum in Phnom Penh

main wat in Luang Prabang


Hmong children in Phonsovan


Day 18 Siem Reap to home

We all had, at different times, a leisurely breakfast. This hotel has the best range of food for breakfast that I have ever seen in my life I think. I started , at 7am, with a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice ( I watched him squeeze the oranges ( which are slightly mandariny)) , then had a plate of pawpaw, pineapple, rockmelon, then after a while, I had some bircher muesli and delicious yoghurt and chopped up fruit salad. After a while, I had some delicious prawn dumpling things, then a cup of coffee and a freshly made crepe and a small Danish and a small croissant.. After a bigger while ( by this stage is was 8.45 ish, ) I decided to have some of the delicious looking blue cheese and a little bread roll to accompany the half glass of champagne ( it was our last breakfast after all). There was a huge array of cold meats, hot savoury food, little cakes etc

Some of us did yet more shopping and had our last fruit drinks, had an afternoon doze and left the hotel at 6.30pm to start our way home. We arrived in Canberra airport at 4.45pm ( 12.45 pm Cambodian time) All went smoothly.

Day 17 Siem Reap

We drove about 60km to visit Beng Mealea. This is reputed to be a prototype for Angkor Wat and is largely destroyed by the jungle, tho’ enough has been cleared that you can walk around / climb over piles of large rocks. It was surprisingly peaceful.

We then went to Banteay Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. It is built out of a lighter stone than the others and has lots of very detailed carvings.
Dinner at yet another good local restaurant.

Day 16 Siem Reap

A bit of history : the Khmer kingdom from 802 to 1432 AD was one of the great powers of SE Asia. There were a series of powerful kings, the first being Jayavarman II who proclaimed himself a god-king, the earthly representative of the Hindu god Shiva. He built a ‘temple mountain’ which set a precedent for the following kings who all tried to outdo each other and build a bigger and better temple dedicated to their preferred Hindu god or Buddha or both. Angkor Wat is the best known but there are many others. Henri Mouhot, in 1868 brought the decaying and overgrown temples to the public’s attention. A few were still in use.

We visited Angkor Wat first – quite breathtaking. Angkor Wat is the best preserved because it was never abandoned. It is a huge building which seems to go on and on. There are many carvings of apsaras ( heavenly nymphs) on the stonework. Angkor Wat, like others is surrounded by a moat.

Then we went to Ta Prohm , originally a Buddhist temple, now in ruins. It is quite atmospheric– large trees growing through ruins, complicated root systems seem to hold up buildings, light comes through trees in strange ways, dark shadows of crumbling decaying moss covered buildings

Angkor Thom is huge walled city. We visited 2 of its gates, a few buildings and the central monument Banyon.

It sounds like lots of buildings and things – which it was but they all were a bit different.

Dinner at yet another delicious place. Our hotel is about 2kn from the centre of town - $2 for a tuktuk. Beats walking in the heat.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Day 15 Phnom Penh to Siem Reap

Another interesting day.

Today we spent most of the day driving from Phnom Penh NW to Siem Reap. A large part of the road was only built 4 years ago with Japanese aid. It is a major highway, 2 lanes, 1 in each direction shared by trucks, tourist buses, motorbikes, few cars, tractors, bullock- drawn drays pilled precariously high, motorbike pulled carts pilled precariously high, pedestrians, animals etc. It takes a while to get anywhere – but that is OK because there is plenty to see. The style of housing changes, the wares in the roadside shops change, the vegetation changes. For a large part of the time we drove along the edge of the Tonle Sap river which flows into the Mekong at Phnom Penh ( except when the Mekong floods and it flows the other way) . The houses along the roadside are mostly on taller stilts than we have seen but the area is very poor. We drove past several brick factories and stone quarries, saw many rice fields and lotus ponds. One of the road side places we stopped at specialised in spiders – alive and dead – and assorted other revolting looking insects.

We stopped at a place called Sambor Prei Kuk where there are many ruins of temples built in the 6th and 7th centuries, pre-Angkor. It was nice wandering around the jungle looking at these structures built of small bricks (hopefully I’ll sort some photos out this evening). The area is off the main road and very poor – no electricity, very few cars in sight, dirt tracks, small houses with bamboo walls.

We arrived at our hotel – Ross has saved the best till last. This hotel is described in a book as French colonial. Nice wood, tiling, courtyards, wide verandahs, seating, little nooks and crannies, beautiful flowers everywhere, huge swimming pool.

I had a swim and then we all had dinner here. Delicious.

Sunday, November 22, 2009

Day 14 Saturday Phnom Penh

This morning I went for an early walk along the waterfront. There were quite a few groups of locals out doing their exercises – a vigorous looking form of tai chi. There were several groups of blokes playing a game with a volleyball size net. They used heads or feet, no hands and had 3 on each side of the net. I have a photo that may ( or may not, more likely) turn out of a group of 8 monks walking earnestly along in their orange robes and sandals all carrying briefcases . They were passing a group of about 15 kids between about 10 and 16 all dancing to some hip hoppy discordant ( to my ear) Asian music. This was at about 6.45 am. Also in the photo are a team of women sweeping the path, emptying bins and watering the grass.

After breakfast we went first to the Royal Palace complex. Behind high walls is a quiet place with well-tended lawns and assorted buildings. We went into the throne hall where official dignitaries are received. It was surprisingly pleasant – distinctly Asian but with a European feel. Within the complex we also visited the Silver Pagoda, so named because of the silver floor. There is a gold Buddha – 90kg of gold.

Then we went to Tuol Sleng Museum, otherwise known as S-21. In 1975 Pol Pot took over a school and it became the largest centre of detention and torture in the country for the 3 1/2 years of Pol Pot’s regime. I took no photographs. The Khmer Rouge took detailed records of the inmates and there were many photographs of the 3 years. It was particularly chilling and aweful but necessary to see, I think, to understand the history of the country.

We then went to the National Museum which was a delightful building, very peaceful ( which it needed to be – we were all very sombre) . We were shown a large array of things, mostly statues from the Angkor period, by a lady with a terrible voice. She spoke in a high-pitched montone, like a robot that needed oiling, and was very hard to understand.

We walked back to our hotel and some of us had lunch at a pleasant café on the way. I had 1 remaining postcard on my ‘absolute minimum list’ to send, so bought one of the museum, found out that the post office was about 1 km away and set off. I reckon you almost walk double the distance by the time you dodge street stalls, motor bikes, cars, tuk tuks, people, beggars, piles of junk, builders etc etc. Once I saw the building I went in search of a coffee and found a place whose main purpose was to sell coffee beans, but they had a few tables. I had a nice cappuccino for $1US. As an aside, most prices are quoted in US$ but the official currency is real – there are 4000 real to 1 US$. It appears that reals are only used for change of less than $1. Many things on menus are, e.g. $2.80 – so you leave $3 and the change becomes the tip. I came back from the post office mostly via back streets, pocked my head into a covered market, passed some food stalls selling completely unrecognisable things, looked for a place to have another snack, decided to by-pass the restaurant that had 4 large black 4WDs outside and double the usual number of security guards ( someone more important than me must have been inside) , found a nice little place, had a lovely pineapple juice and was just started on my crepes when a large truck parked outside and started very noisily pumping out sewage. Ah well, I wasnot far from my hotel – time for another bath. Trouble is the bath is surrounded by 3 full walls of mirrors – I found yesterday it was a bit offputting.

Day 13 Friday Vientiane to Phnom Penh

The usual – bus to airport, wait around, plane trip, wait around, bus to hotel. Our Cambodian guide talked to us about Cambodia and its recent history in the bus. The hotel we are staying in is in a great location right on the water front – Tonle Sap River which joins the Mekong 500m south . I have a little balcony that looks along the river. The room is very opulent. Some of us wandered up the street and found a café for a late lunch, then it was back to the hotel for a bath before going to the Foreign Correspondent’s Club for a drink and then dinner. The tuk tuk drivers are not pushy and the few beggars I have seen are not pushy either but I have not wandered far.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Day 12 Thursday Vientiane

Today we went to 4 different places. Firstly a lovely wat – Wat Si Sakit. It was built in the early 1800’s. The temple is surrounded by cloisters with many images of Buddha. It had a really peaceful feel. Hah Pha Kaeo followed – an ex-temple, now a museum, then Pha That Luang. This was not to my taste! It is the national monument of Laos, and is supposed to be a symbol of both Buddhism and Lao sovereignty. It is a goldy coloured stupa surrounded by concrete. It doesnot have, for me, a good peaceful feel.

After that we drove to a funny thing that looks like the Arc de Triomphe. We climbed to the top and had a good view of the city. Vientiane is built on the edge of the Mekong but there seems to be a lot of construction along the waterfront and the view of it from the top of the Arc was all I have seen.

Mrs MW and I did some shopping in the afternoon, ignoring the protestations of Mr DW who is well known for his opposition to spending money.

Tomorrow we are off to Cambodia.

Day 11 Wednesday Phonsovan to Vientiane

This morning we drove from our hotel to the third of the 3 main sites to view the unexplained large stone jars. On the way we stopped twice – firstly to take some photos of 3 little Hmong girls dressed up in the traditional clothes. Today is the first day of the 3 or 4 days celebration of the Hmong new year and we passed a family walking along the street. They were happy to be photographed. A little later we drove passed a larger group of about 20. They were playing a ball game and were , once again, happy for us to take photos. There were 2 lines of girls facing each other throwing a ball back wards and forwards to each other in pairs using only 1 hand. Apparently it is traditionally played with a boy and a girl but we saw only the girls. There were some boys watching but when we passed they were not taking part.

Yesterday we were the only tourists at the 2 sites of jars that we went to, so today it was a bit of a let down to have other tourists looking around with us. There was an adult Hmong woman dressed up a singing – without apparently wanting money. Maybe it was a new year thing.

Back in Phonsovan we had hoped to visit the office of MAG (Mines Advisory Group) to see their display of the clearing of UXO’s and watch a video, however the office was closed for the new year celebrations. We had a leisurely lunch then short drive to airport, wait, short flight, wait for bags, bus to hotel. Usually stuff – waiting.

Vientiane , the capital of Laos , has a population of 600,000. It is the only city in Laos to have traffic lights. It took 15 minutes to drive from the airport to our hotel. It has a peculiar feel. Old French buildings , usually in a sad state of disrepair, new office blocks built in a style that I think is meant to be Laotian – the roofs look like temple roofs but the rest is a rectangular boring box, often white with goldy coloured decorations and many old buildings. Brand new large 4WD alongside tuk tuk’s and street sellers. Modern coffee shops next to a local Asian restaurant – ingredients on a table in the front with the wok on a burner and a few simple tables - , massage places, restaurants of all different cuisines, next to a shop selling, eg, tyres.

Mrs MW and her husband and I went to a ‘French’ restaurant where we had ravioli for dinner. It was delicious.

Labels for more photos

Sorry - the photos got out of order

Typical Hmong house on edge of Phonsovan
A few of the unexplained jars
Wat Xieng Muan, Luang Prabang
Bombed Buddha image at Muang Khoun
Monks at Luang Prabang

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View of Mekong at Sunset from my bedroom at Pak Beng lodge
Khamu village on Mekong
Mekong
Lao village children
Half our group on boat from Thailand to Laos
A couple from our group on an elephant ( sorry K not me)

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Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Vientiane

Arrived here safely. Good internet connection. Will try and post some photos later but dinner awaits now.

Day 10 Phonsavan

This area was heavily bombed in the late 60’s by USA and there are, according to the signs, still UXO (unexploded ordinances) in some fields. It has become an administrative centre for the area and most of the buildings in the town are new. Vietnam is about 80km to the east and there are many Vietnamese here. Tourists come her to see the Plain of Jars. There are several sites around Phonsavan where the ground is littered with large stone jars. No one knows what they were used for. The smaller ones were about 1m high but a few were almost 2m. We went to 2 sites today – one we reached by a walk up a hill from where the bus dropped us ( we stayed on the marked path!) and the other site we reached by a very pleasant 15min walk through rice paddies, over styles and past buffalo grazing.

After lunch in a pleasant local noodle soup shop, we went to Muang Khoun, an old capital, with a few remains. We went to an old Buddhist stupa built in the 15th century and to the remains of a Buddhist temple b built in the 16th century. Some of the pillars are there along with a large seated Buddha. I quite liked him. He had a damaged face, blown away arm, but still seemed very peaceful.

I am now back in my room and my fire has been lit. I donot know how long the wood will last, it seems quite light ( red box it is not) but it will be nice to watch. This place is like what I imagine a hunting lodge to be – timber, stone, eiderdown-like bedcovers. These are needed because there are gaps in the floorboards and around the windows through which the wind whistled last night. The shower has an instant gas hot water thing. It was a bit tricky turning the 2 dials on the heater and the hot and cold tap in the right sequence to get hot water without too much gas. I have a lovely view of the valley below from a window and would have from the balcony but that is missing a railing or 4 and is not to be used ( according to a large sign on the inside door)

Day 9 Monday Luang Prabang to Phonsavan

We left early for a long drive, firstly south to Muang Phu Khoun and then east to Phonsavan. It is spectacular, mountainous country with very windy roads and wonderful views. I was not feeling crash hot, so slept a lot of the way. It is mostly Hmong country. They have played a large part in the instability in this area and the road west from Phonsavan has only been considered safe from insurgents in the last few years. We passed many villages with basic houses but many had satellite dishes. Our hotel is perched on a hill behind Phonsavan and is very atmospheric – stone and timber individual huts with fireplaces. It is almost cold – a very pleasant change from over 30C.

Day 8 Luang Prabang

We piled into 2 tuk tuks for the 20 minute ride out of town to visit the grave of Henri Mouhot, the French explorer who ‘discovered’ Angkor Wat. We stopped at village where many people are weavers. The house we stopped at had the whole process – silk worms eating mulberry leaves ( mulberry tea is on most menus) , 2 women using looms and a lady selling their woven things.

Some of us then hired bicycles and followed Ross around and about for an hour or so. We went through a minor industrial area on the edge of town – same as anywhere – car repair places, car sales yards, fix-it shops but with more timber yards than you would see in an Australian town.

We all did our own thing in the afternoon which for me included a swim in the pool and reading my book ( non Laos related). In the evening we watched the sun go down over the river and then had dinner at an upmarket restaurant. It was delicious, yet again.

Day 7 Luang Prabang

This morning we went first to the Royal Palace Museum. This was built in 1904 during the early French colonial era as a residence for King Sisavangvong. According to our guide it was originally built with half its façade in the French style and half in the Laotian style but , more recently, the French half was remade to be Laotian. There were many rooms decorated as they would have been in the early 1900’s and some interesting ornately embroidered official clothing.

Luang Prabang has many many wats ( temples) . We went to what is reputed to be the most magnificent, Wat Xieng Thong. It had royal patronage until 1975 when the communists took over and the royal family was sent to the north to be reeducated. The main building is in traditional Luang Prabang temple style and is quite attractive with a sort of layered roof. It was ornately decorated with gold stencils on the walls but there was a peaceful feeling to it.

We had another delicious lunch in a restaurant overlooking the Mekong. We had 4 dishes between 4 of us, rice and a great fresh lemon and mint drink for 134,000 kip. 1$Aus = about 8,000kip. We gave them 35,000 kip each – about $4.50. There are some upmarket shops with beautiful stuff that we strolled past. We found a place that I had read about where you can buy books that are then distributed to school children in poor areas. We bought a few. I bought an icecream from a street seller for 2000 kip ( 25cents) . It was like a chocolate coated chocolate paddlepop but the icecream was fairly basic.

There are lots of tourists wandering around, many guesthouses, many places operating tours to places a little way out of town, lots of colour – the buildings, tropical plants etc. The locals seem pleasant and gentle. It is quieter and more peaceful than either Dali or Lijiang in Yunnan that I visited last year.

Day 6 Friday Pak Beng to Luang Prabang

Another day on the river leisurely watching the world go past.

We stopped before lunch at a Lao village. This was more prosperous than the village we stopped at the day before. It was a Buddhist village complete with temple. The houses were on stilts and underneath many were either looms where beautiful scarves were woven or stills where whiskey was distilled. Some in our group sampled the whiskey and most bought a scarf or 3.

After lunch we stopped at some caves where there are thousands of Buddha images. The first cave was crowded, dark and I thought, quite oppressive, so I got out. We walked a short way to another cave in which I did not feel so uncomfortable.

We arrived at Luang Prabang in the late afternoon. The hotel we are staying in is brand new with spacious rooms and a nice feel.

Luang Prabang is built on a narrow strip of land formed where the Namkam river joins the Mekong. It was formed in the 12th century and has had very mixed fortunes since then. There is evidence in the town of Thai, Cambodian, Burmese and French cultures. It was declared a world heritage site by the UN in 1995.