Wednesday, October 7, 2026

Monday and Tuesday

Yesterday my destination  was Santa Croce Basilica and the surrounding area. I had intended on getting there just before it opened, but wandered around too much so that I was about 30 minutes too late. Too many groups waiting to enter, people milling around etc, so I wandered around more streets. At on point, in a nearby square, I stopped for a coffee and croissant. NEar me, the most I have paid is €3.80. I was charged €8. I donot know, and I donot intend on finding out if everything gets marked up but 4 euros or everything gets doubled.  I thought I was far enough from Santa Croce to be safe , but no.  I found a nice quiet place for lunch in a backwater that was priced the same as I have being paying. I frittered away the afternoon reading about places to go, doing a cryptic crossword and reading.

The last time I was in Italy was with Noel in 2017 I think. Then it was still the custom that I remembered from quite a few previous trips to Italy that if you bought a drink in a bar about 5ish, they included substantial snacks,,enough for a second meal if you had had a big main meal at lunch. ( I did observe in some places that I got the same as a table for 2., the norm. The food plates were prepared beforehand) Anyway, I thought I would see what happens here. I went to the friendly place I go now for my morning cappuccino and ordered an aperol spritz. I was given the choice of chips or peanuts to go with it. Not quite the same. Ah well. I did though have an interesting half hour talking to a local, a woman of 80 who lived nearby.

I forgot- a most annoying part of the day was that i accidently  deleted the days route  from the app I use to track where I have been.  Nevermind, I carefully saved todays route.

This morning i got to the church before it opened and got in before the crowds. I did feel uncomfortable though at the start. I bought a ticket, €10  then lined up to buy an audio guide¿€6.  Then the lady, who was trying to be pleasant  and appeared to speak good English, wanted my passport ( or identity card which Europeans have)   so I would return the audioguide) There was a box of passpots behind her on a bench in clear view.. I said politely that I was not happy leaving my passport there  and did I really have to. She just said yes. I stood thinking, my mind racing. Meanwhile the queue is getting longer. I went in, leaving my passport with her. I wanted to see inside the church. It is the first Gothic church I have be in for a while  - plainer, but still lovely. I pottered around for ages. Some highlights : a large wooden cross with Jesus on it painted in about 1265 that was severely damaged in the flood of 1966. End of Byzantine style. According the guide I listened to, after restoring a lot of it, they left some undone so that part of Jesus' s body looks hazy and etheral . The restorer decided that the work of art should show its history. Maybe that's just a copy-out and it was too hard. Michaelangelo 's tomb was interesting and so was Machiavelli's tomb. I know nothing about him. he's next on the list after basilicas.  The sun was rising as I was there and shining right into the stained glass windows behind the altar creating interesting colours in the church. Easy to just sit, I found, as I did.( having forgotten about my passport) ( which was there when i left)

Then i found a reasonably priced place for lunch and started homeward.  Most direct route  1km. My circuitous route 2.5, via a stop for an iceceream  and then an iced coffee ( no cream or icecream), then the supermarket for  some yoghurt for breakfast.



 

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