Monday, September 28, 2026

More Malta

 Another annoying thing about the trip here was at Franfurt. Now all incomers to the EU ( or Europe ??) have to have their fingerprints recorded. Frankfurt is a major hub for incomes. They have not got their act together. I was expecting German efficiency  to  be more efficient. About 45 minutes later, about 3 long queues and 1 bus ride around the airport, we got somewhere. However the guy behind the booth of my queue said his machine was broken  so I was told to walk through without my fingrprints being recorded. . He assured me it would not be a problem later on.  I will find out. Another bus ride to the airplane.

The hotel in Valetta that I am staying in has a lovely view over the harbour. I am on the 5th floor , high for Valetta so can see over rooftops, lots of church spires. I am away from most of the tourists, but only by a few blocks. 

On Sunday I went to Marsaxlokk ( x pronounced sh) a fishing village about 45 min bus ride away . They have a big fish and veg (and all the other stuff  you would expect) market on Sunday morning along the waterfront of a pretty bay with lots of small brightly painted fishing boats.  After battling my way through locals and tourists, I found there was a 50cm wide path on  the edge of a wall with water on one side and the markets stall tents' backs on the other which was very pleasant.

My plan was to get a bus or 2 to the next place on my list - the Hagar Qim archaeology site.  The major bus stop in Valetta is quite well organised, there are clear instructions of what buses go where and when. Not so on the roadside stops away from the centre.  I had a map of the routes, which I could not have done without ( google maps was completely wrong  once) . Timing is also a challenge.  I managed.  Chatted to quite a few locals. A few tourists.

Hagar Qin is a  called a temple complex, but they are guessing about the temple bit. Dated to 3600BC.  It has large outer walls of huge stones  that have been put in place , doorways so you  can walk in and around inner rooms. There are places where it is clear that the people were observing the moon and other constellations.   It is thought that there was a roof over at least a part of it. Now the whole thing is covered buy a huge tent like structure to preserve it.

Today I went , with a rather large number of others, to the Cathedral of St John, started in 1572 and finished 5 years later. It is very, very ornate, but it did not feel as oppressive  as some I have been in. Maybe because it was quite light. And I have a bit of an issue with churches, like this one, where the floor is absolutely  covered in tombs  - they are underneath and you walk on what is equivalent to the headstones.  Nevermind, I thought and silently apologised to the dead people for being disrespectful. But the main reason I went was to see the large Caravaggio altar piece in the oratory. the beheading of St John.  I had read quite a bit  about it and was a bit disappointed that I could not get a bit closer.

Later this morning I went by bus to the airport to try and upgrade my basic economy fare to a higher grade of economy fare that means I can carry-on  my carry-on bag. All the rules have changed since my ticket was issued and there was misunderstanding between me and my travel agent . But the answer was no, they would not change it unless  I paid 50  euros. . Ah well.  It will go in the hold  and if that means I miss my train to Florence,  I will get the next train and that will be less than 50

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