Day 5 Thursday Torcello

Nobody in their right mind would have ventured out this morning – raining, windy and cold. Just as well I’m somebody, not nobody. I walked half way across Venice ( from SE to N) to the ferry terminal to go to Burano. Walking was faster than catching another ferry, but not as dry! Burano is one of the northern islands, famous for its lace making, fishing and brightly coloured houses. (see photo). I’d left without my morning coffee, so as soon as I arrived in Burano I went into the first bar. It was the typical tiny place, a few tiny tables with a few elderly gentlemen there for the day, talking to anyone who would listen to them. In the time it took me to have a cappuccino and croissant, 4 separate workmen came in. They all had different drinks but all the drinks had alcohol in them. I had a bit of a wander and then caught the ferry to Torcello. Apart from the driver and his offsider, I was the only passenger.

Torcello was established between the 5th and 6th centuries and became a thriving place with a population that, supposedly, reached 20,000. Now there are 60 ( according to the book – I saw 4) people, a Byzantine cathedral and the church of Santa Fosca, a couple of restaurants for the hordes (? Maybe in summer) of visitors, many ruins of derelict houses ( though there are currently public works going on to clean the place up – judging by the equipment, there was no activity today) and the ferry terminal. Avid readers of this space may remember that I particularly enjoyed the Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna on my last trip to Italy. This church could rival several of them. There was a huge mosaic telling many different stories on the whole of the west wall and the apse was covered in different people. Quite a few of the mosaics had been restored in the 11th and 12th century – but they were still great. Unlike the churches in Ravenna, all the churches I’ve been to in Venice have had big signs – No photos. The attached church (see photo) was simple and peaceful. There is also a bell tower but the attendant told me that it was slippery in the wet and the weather conditions would have severely limited the view, so I passed.

Back to Burano for a late lunch, then ferry back to Venice proper, then walk home – ½ hour very brisk walk with only 2 confirmatory glances at the map. I'm getting better.