Basilica of St Ambrose and other endings

Yesterday afternoon I was very unsettled – not sure whether to go for a walk, what to do about dinner etc etc. I remembered that I had read about St Ambrose. He was sent to Milan in 374 to sort out squabbling factions of the Christian church after a bishop had just died. He spoke sensibly with great wisdom apparently. The people decided he would make a good bishop – trouble was he was not even a priest ( I’ve forgotten the correct term for those days) . It only took them 2 weeks or so to sort that minor problem out. He was a good bishop for a long time. There is a church that he built not far from where I was staying, so I thought I’d have a look. I walked in and felt really glad I had gone. It was very old – bits date from the church that Ambrose started in 386 and had been added to – very light, obviously a ‘used’ building ( there was a big poster of the community in Africa that the congregation supports) , locals wandering in and out outnumbered tourists, a large Byzantine mosaic covering most of the apse etc . I bought a pamphlet about the bits and pieces in the church and in it was another more general pamphlet talking about how a church was 2 things – a building ( it defined lots eg duomo, chapel, oratory, basilica) and the community of people who worshipped (in the building) together. It talked about how when you go into a church you should not treat it like a museum but let yourself be surprised by the half-light, the tall vaults, the perspective views, the silences that induce you to meditate etc. It said a bit more and then ended with “Come in and listen to it, this church has many things to tell you.”

I wished I had read this at the beginning of my 4 weeks, but then again it was an excellent way to finish and gave me plenty to ponder upon. Maybe I will read this pamphlet again when I sit in my first church on my next visit to Italy ( or, shock, horror, at home)

Just before I went into the church I had found a shop selling pieces of foccacia with interesting toppings and little cakes. I did not really want to sit in a restaurant – so I was pleased to find something I could take back to my hotel. A little later I came across a fruit shop and bought a nice big peach to have too. Just right.

Another good ending – in the Brera Art Gallery I looked at the paintings that my guide books said were noteworthy and the brochure that came with the audio guide. The last one on the list was commissioned by the Duke of Montefeltro , the guy who was the main guy who built up Urbino, the first place I went to 4 weeks ago. He was in the painting.

I am now in a lounge with 2 boarding passes. My checked in bag weighed 10.8 kg. I reckon my hand luggage is about 3kg. I’ve ditched a bit more stuff than I have acquired. There is a fair bit of space in my backpack and I have not spent as much as I thought I would. How sad is that? I’ll just have credit for next trip.